View Full Version : Brakes
Hi,
I am new to 1:5 scale racing and was wondering:
With my 1:8 scale protech enigma XG I could get the wheels to block at any speed.
With my TB2 I have big trouble getting the brakes to do a proper job.
I use as gas/brake servo the savox sc 1267 @ 6V it has 13kg/cm torque.
Is this a good enough servo for the purpose?
Hugo
mynameismud76
07-06-2010, 01:00 PM
Welcome to largescale buddy.
My throttle/brake servo is around 18kg..I'm still asking for more.
A lot of TBII guys I've seen are running two multiplex digi 4 rhino's, one for steering and the other for gas/brake.
You also need to (this part is a ball-ache) setup your brake pads as well. I've set my pads so that the it's screwed down quite far, almost to the point the pads are dragging, then back the screws of 1/4 turn..no more.
Hope this helps.
mooman007uk
07-06-2010, 04:15 PM
you need a servo with lots of torque for sure...i had a jr z9100T which did the job (380ozin) but stripped the horn so thru in a 5645 and it's lacking big time...you can help by making the brake lever wire hoopy things as long as they can be to aid leverage but no substitute for more power
Pipeous
07-06-2010, 06:48 PM
I don't understand, I use 5745's and have my epa at about 40% and the brakes lock solid. it just takes adjusting the linkages like above, and making sure there is no binding
ok so the hitec 5745 have 18 kg/cm @ 6V right?
that is roughly 25% more then i have now with 13 kg/cm
i am thinking about putting another savox in parrallel but dont know if i have the space on the servo mount...any experience with two servo's in parallel?
hugo
NutechNL
07-07-2010, 10:58 AM
hi hugo
i dont think 2 servos in parallel would work, invest into the new hitec one,
do a search on marktplaats, rhino servos, there is a guy named marco that sell the new hitec for 68 euro i think.. not a bad deal at all, he also sells rhino servos for cheaper.
mynameismud76
07-07-2010, 01:09 PM
Firstly..COME ON HOLLAND!!!!!!
+1 NutechNL.
For all the trouble of getting another Savox in there (as you know, there's not that much room), you can get a Hitec in there..and just set up the brake pads =).
Yes, Pipeous has no issues..but that's because his pads are still quite new. But once the pads wear out a bit more, you'll notice a decrease in braking power. And this is when you need to set the screws that holds the pads (and discs) to screw down quite well.
Hope this helps =)
mooman007uk
07-07-2010, 03:48 PM
my pads are half worn, they're adjusted correctly but just don't bite like they used to...I'd prefer to see a fibre disc and metal pads
Pipeous
07-07-2010, 04:41 PM
Guess I'll have to cut some carbon brake discs for mine then
mynameismud76
07-09-2010, 03:31 AM
Brakes are over-rated!!
:boxing:
aidensere07
07-09-2010, 09:27 AM
Brakes are over-rated!!
:boxing:
just drift 180 and then plant the throttle :punk: :punk:
mynameismud76
07-09-2010, 11:12 PM
just drift 180 and then plant the throttle :punk: :punk:
That's how I brake!!
Maybe that's why my tyres never last:with stupid:
Hi all,
I just wondered if someone has tried to fit hydraulic brakes to their TB2?
What would be best? 2 in the front wheels and one on the centre diff for the rear?
two on the cetre diff?
any thoughts on this?
hugo
Hi Guys,
Just to let you all know i have now installed a savox 1256 as a brake/throttle servo.
it has 20 kg/cm.
I adjusted the brake arms as suggested and brakes are now rock solid!
tx for tips everybody.
also installed a rhino digi 4 for steering , also much improved!
guess my initial set of servo's was badly advised by Toemen Modelbouw in Den Bosch, did not like their service anyway.
hugo
NutechNL
10-06-2010, 09:06 PM
glad you got it sorted, how are you liking the TB2?
Hi,
I took the TBII out for a spinn today, on really harsh terrain.
I did a full tank, one dog bone popped after a jump and i made a roll that ripped out a shock. All was repairable on site, I think the TBII is a very robust piece of kit, off course if you see the actual abuse on rough terrain i am amazed it all stays together.
As for handeling, i am still looking for some improvement on the rear. I think the springs are to weak. You suggested the MT shocks so I will think about that. First i try to get/mod some clips to preload the rear suspension.
So quite happy with the TBII !
hugo
Pipeous
10-11-2010, 02:19 AM
if you can't find clips then cut some rings of pvc pipe and cut slots in. they work pretty good. exhaust couplers work too
good luck
NutechNL
10-11-2010, 08:46 AM
have you changed the oils in the shocks?
pvc preloads work and are easy to make, hows the fiberglass RR bod holding up?
are you coming to the raco 2000 open race this coming weekend? its in utrecht
hi,
no change in oil in shocks yet... i only checked them as discussed in the forum here that this is a good thing to do to see if they where properly filled and they where...
I figured out i have switched a spring when doing that so one of the longer springs ended up in a front side shock and vise versa ...:damn:...
So that would explain the weaker right side ...
I will test on friday als i will set up the shocks as straight up as possible and will make a pre load from PVC pipe, that would help...
hee thanks for the tip i will check out raco2000 this weekend right(or last ...)
body is holding up ok, the red finish (Gelcoat?) is hard and at the mount points some small chips come off but all ok so far.
Guess it is a bit heavy but that important to me.
all n all happy cruiser here!
hugo
mooman007uk
11-30-2010, 04:10 PM
scored some carbon fibre so am gonna try making some carbon brake discs to see if they work, just have to find the motivation now to pull the centre diff, be a good time to install the new nutech locker in there too and dispense with the welded diff...should save a bit of drivetrain weight too
mooman007uk
12-08-2010, 11:12 PM
so I figure as the drive cup is near round already carbon discs are going to round out real fast even with super glue on the edges...what I'm going to try instead is epoxing a 1mm carbon disc on each side of the metal disc, grinding the pad material off the steel and see how that works
mradlin
12-09-2010, 01:32 AM
What about carbon pads instead of the ones on there now Moo?
mooman007uk
12-09-2010, 03:42 PM
It seems that fibre discs and metal pads has always been the best way round for max brakes..why this is I don't know. I tried carbon pads on one of my nitros once befrore(can't remember which one)and it didn't improve any...with a fibre disc and metal pads though it locked em up no bother
mradlin
12-10-2010, 02:12 AM
I only mentioned it as my Baja has the Vertigo carbon brake kit. (pads) They lock up and wirk great!!
mooman007uk
12-10-2010, 04:55 AM
does that have steel discs?
mradlin
12-10-2010, 05:08 AM
Yes it does. It was on my baja i had with me back in the summer on the island. I have been running them for over 2 years now, they still work awesome.
Pipeous
12-10-2010, 07:11 AM
most of the 8th scales use a metal disc with fibre pads. I had to crazy glue the pads onto my front discs on the bike. what would also work is some gasket stuff. like some felpro stuff you cut your own with. that would have some serious grip on the metal and easy to make more. I'm going to try that myself...
Shvelle
12-10-2010, 04:29 PM
It seems that fibre discs and metal pads has always been the best way round for max brakes..why this is I don't know. I tried carbon pads on one of my nitros once befrore(can't remember which one)and it didn't improve any...with a fibre disc and metal pads though it locked em up no bother
Sounds like a good plan. Will be interested to know how it works-out for you.
Curious - is there a enough room on the brake disc to epoxy a washer on each side of the center hole (to strengthen it) - while still leaving enough 'disc' exposed that the pads can clamp just the fiber?
mooman007uk
12-10-2010, 05:26 PM
...i think I'll try the pads first as it'll be quicker and easier, just have to grab some 2 part epoxy.
I got a big piece of thick mr gasket stuff but I think it'll wear out too quick...would certainly grip though
Shvelle
12-10-2010, 06:57 PM
D'oh - replied with wrong quote before - this is the one I meant to quote...
so I figure as the drive cup is near round already carbon discs are going to round out real fast even with super glue on the edges...what I'm going to try instead is epoxing a 1mm carbon disc on each side of the metal disc, grinding the pad material off the steel and see how that works
mooman007uk
12-11-2010, 06:25 PM
pads are done and fitted. reall easy to do, took about 20mins all up. i put a bit of epoxy on each one to hlod them to the steel plates and left the springs out.
When I was putting it back togetheri think I discovered why the brakes go bad, when i first got it brakes were ok but gradually got worse to the point where I have zero brakes; as they wear the little spring holding the pads apart compresses more to the point where it won't compress any more and it then prevents the pads from clamping the disc...take the springs out and i reckon the brakes will be fine til the pads are totally worn.
Anyhow got ot back together and tried it quickly in the drive...I now have brakes again:punk: I roughed the carbon and discs up but it takes a couple of feet to grab and lock up...I think once they're bedded in it'll be pretty instant...I'll give it another try if the rain holds off later on.
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/mooman007uk/DSC01980.jpg
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/mooman007uk/DSC01981.jpg
http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/mooman007uk/DSC01983.jpg
mradlin
12-11-2010, 06:27 PM
Looks really good!!
now they just have to work. ;)
mooman007uk
12-11-2010, 06:32 PM
with the brakes full on the wheels are locked when I push it with my foot...i reckon they're going to be ok once they bed in..glad you said your vertigo ones worked well, saved me some time and carbon
mynameismud76
12-11-2010, 08:53 PM
They look great!! Hope it works well.
I'm getting tired of having to scrub the discs and flatten the pads every few tanks =(
Shvelle
12-23-2010, 02:04 AM
So....., have you had a chance to fire it up and take it for a run? How well do the modded pads work?
mooman007uk
12-23-2010, 06:08 PM
only the quick run in the drive...if it quits raining I'll give it a longer run and see...I can pull on the servo horn and the brakes lock solid...i couldn't do that before...
Pipeous
12-24-2010, 05:55 PM
I drive too slow to need brakes...
moo you need air flaps operated with an extra channel to flip out body parts like flaps on a plane
mooman007uk
12-24-2010, 08:22 PM
LOL, now there's an idea
mynameismud76
12-24-2010, 11:15 PM
Bugatti Veyron has air brakes:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=myovuS2vihM
mooman007uk
12-31-2010, 04:54 PM
Ok managed to get on the track ysterday and I don't need the airbrakes the carbon ones work a treat...now to see how well they wear.
Pipeous
12-31-2010, 07:21 PM
wishing I'd come over now to run. too friggin cold to work here this week. took a whole day to do 1 car yesterday. decided to not even bother today. going to tinker on the table.
ok, guys i have put in the 18 kg savox
AND set up the pads like suggested...
now rock solid braking! execellent!
but indeed brakes are overrated
(did land my TBII into the ditch in front of my house that was just cleaned for winter. had to jump in and save it...) fortunately no real damage other then a awful smell when cleaning. the radiobox just remained dry and the airfiltere was socked but no water in the engine.)
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