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View Full Version : new MT a arms, same problem



fatjay
07-09-2010, 09:17 PM
I got the replacement a amrs from willy at c4....having the same issue...if I dont chamber them way out in the front...it binds....this is suck....anyone else having the same issues????



NUTECH PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!

fatjay
07-10-2010, 03:04 AM
before long someone was going to ask for a video....chamber is set to just about zero if not a little out


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=83DL5GXp48I

ALUMINUM CRUSHER
07-11-2010, 07:28 PM
Hi I'm new here what seems to be the problem are your wheels rubbing the a arms? Did it do that with the original wheels?

fatjay
07-11-2010, 10:03 PM
The problem is they are binding like the dog bones are to long...In this version of the MMT the lower front a arms were to short and a replacement set was sent out...but it does the same thing as before...you need to run the chamber way out to keep it from binding...

mooman007uk
07-12-2010, 04:36 PM
try running it on the ground, it'll be fine...
word of advice....DO NOT set up your camber at full droop...set it with the truck on the bench at ride height...the camber changes becomes more negative as the suspension moves up from full droop...mine used to wobble the wheels at full droop like yours, so did gas jockeys and clubins ...the dogbone angles and the fact that the pins are 90deg offset to each other are what makes it wobble at full droop...on the ground running i never had an issue.

unless you got another set of short arms I'd suggest adjusting camber on the ground and run it...you'll find it'll steer and drive just fine.

fatjay
07-12-2010, 11:26 PM
either way i should be able to run this cambered in full and not have it bind no matter what..i think i know how to fix it..but its a bad design and should be fixed at the production level..even longer a arms or get rid of the spring loaded out drive and move to a fixed unit with a longer cup

mooman007uk
07-13-2010, 04:09 PM
it'll always bind on the bench at full droop if you have 2deg or so neg camber...best cure to solve all the issues is the CVD's , it'd be nice if they fitted as a stock item from the factory but alas they're not.
the sliding cups are a good concept but tend to get stuck in after a bit of running

roccos_van
07-13-2010, 10:07 PM
Sorry to hear Jay...I replaced the 'short' arms in my MT and everything is great. (I did get rid of the cone springs in the cups however) Ditch those for an extra couple of mm's.

fatjay
07-13-2010, 10:42 PM
I am giong to take out the spring inside the diff and mod them to take out some of their power..they are to strong and dont allow the cups to move in at all and I think that is what is causing the binding..

fatjay
07-16-2010, 12:08 AM
update and problem solved:

The springs on the inside of the diff for the spring loaded out drives are just way to strong..did not allow any movment...took them out all together and it works like a charm...

I do however think that the dog bones are just a little long.

ALUMINUM CRUSHER
07-16-2010, 03:11 AM
Hey FatJay if you don't mind post up an video of the no binding as you did with the binding. And show us your beast running in the field. Thanks