kill switch issues

[banners]

Hello I'm having issues with my radio/kill switch set up - any assistance is appreciated.

I'm running the Ansmann 2.4Ghz w3 with a pico switch that worked perfectly fine in my baja switching off from the third channel and when you switched the radio off - perfect. However, I've swapped it all into my Punisher and had it working like that on very rare occasions.

I can get it working fine away from the car but not when it's in it's radio box. I overhauled the lot as the switch caused a run away and the kill switch wiring had rotted. It was fine on the bench, the 3rd channel worked each and every time as it should along with the power switch killing the spark to the plug. Brilliant I thought, assembled it all back together and started the engine - great. This lasted about 10 minutes (I tried several times and suddenly the 3rdchannel stopped) and has returned to the state of only working from the power switch again. I'm using a 6V 4300mAh hump pack as per the baja. I've replaced the switch completely with a deans connector.

I've spent a few hours swapping from the pico to a battleswitch and with the other 2 rx's I have.

It's affecting my confidence with the re to be honest. I can't trust it :(

I know Mud's had issues too. Any ideas please?

Steve

[mradlin]

I wonder if the pico is getting interference from being so close to the engine?

[Pipeous]

With the wiring having "rotted", there might be internal damage to the kill switch. was it also the same radio used in both rc's? was considering maybe a failsafe issue.

I would say get a real kill switch. a killer rc unit. they are not just picco switches but have been altered for specific use as a kill switch. since you have a 3ch, get a v1 and be done with it. cheap investment really when you consider how much the rest costs.

(I was having issues that I thought were kill switch related but ended up being my rx, or maybe radio but won't know until my new rx's show up)

[banners]

When it had the run away (last week) I decided to solder all the connections for peace of mind as I've had a loose spade connection in the past - belt and braces!

The first time there were issues I was running at the beach - but the car is a 2nd hand one too - I put it down to getting wet as the radio box was a V1. I replaced the kill switch with a new pico which I modded to perform as intended. It worked great on the bench but poo on the car after a few minutes. It starts fine with the 3rd channel working but stops after a short while. I then replaced the rx to eliminate that from the first rx. No difference :( no 3rd channel operation.

I spoke to Aidensere07 and he's been running a battleswitch with no problem. So I bought a battleswitch. Wired it in and again in worked fine on the bench, no spark from the plug with the 3rd channel off, spark when on, flashing led when power is cut to the tx and the relay clicking nicely in harmony to all the operations. Bingo I thought finally got it sorted - WRONG!!

I placed the rx and the battleswitch in a fg radio box leaving the battery the soul occupant in the v2 nutech radio box and started the engine - 3rd channel's working as it should as is the power to the tx. Then after a short while the 3rd channel doesn't want to play anymore.

So I think I've eliminated as much as I can think of logically bar a whole new radio - but Mud's running a killer bee with a spekky and suffering the same issues - no reliable 3rd channel switch operation and having to rely on switching the transmitter off to kill the engine. I've tried 3 rx's and 3 versions of kill switch - and - fresh wiring.

It should work - killing the engine if it ventures out of range (I've not tried it) but I don't understand why the 3rd channel is dropping out when on the car? I don't like not knowing why!

The Ansmann does have a failsafe built in - I have left it in neutral - the cars coasts to a stop.

If I was to put a servo on the 3rd channel, I'm curious what should happen on operation?

Thanks for the help so far,
Steve

[mradlin]

Do you have a different radio to try? Perhaps that might do it.

[banners]

I don't and I don't fancy splashing cash on it either at the moment - it's been an expensive month! That and it works fine away from the car.

I've fitted a ferrite clip around the ignition wiring this morning and it's decided it wants to work - odd but I'll try to see how it lasts in a bit.

[banners]

Had a go this afternoon. Started it fine left it 10-20 seconds, 3rd channel - killed the engine. So far so good, started again little blip around the back garden, 30 seconds to a minute, 3rd channel works again no problem. So I decide to stuff the innards of the radio box back into the radio box, start again - 3rd channel no longer works again.

So I take it all out again and the 3rd channel is doing nothing to the battleswitch again. Everything was unplugged again, switched the tx off and counted to 10..... TX back on, plug the rx in and the 3rd channel is working again. After 3-4 attempts it starts to slow in reaction - maybe a second to switch off then it stops switching all together again. It makes no sense to me.

[Pipeous]

almost like it's overheating? maybe spray some liquid wrench in the switch. maybe it got some water inside and has a bit of rust? grasping at straws here. that is an odd one for sure.

[banners]

Weird isn't it? Thanks for the input, this battle switch has not seen any action outside of the house as it's brand new.

Could the coil itself be interfering? I'm struggling tbh to see what it could be. It's almost like it is picking up voltage from elsewhere or some capacitive effect?

[mynameismud76]

Similar reliability issues with my KillerBee V2s (no third channel operation, realise now..LOL).

Steve, do set your RX failsafe to apply some brakes as well..see "Captains Log..." thread.

I'm thinking the coil sure chucks out alot of magnetic interference..but there's another closer magnetic source: magnets on the flywheel. Whether these two magnetic source are to blame, I don't know TBH..not good with electronics =(

This is curious though, as there are three Punisher owners I know are having killswitch issues: Banners, Aiden, and myself.

Puzzzzzled :dots:

[banners]

I think I may have found the problem to be the transmitter. I sat down and thought about it - it hurt a lot :lol:

I got home from work this afternoon, switched both tx and rx on - 3rd channel works, clicking away like a good un. I left it all switched on. 5 minutes later the kill switch has decided to stay on no matter the 3rd channel switch position.

So I next leave the tx on and switch off the rx. I give it 5 minutes or so like this, return power to the rx and the kill switch is still not working from the 3rd channel. Switching the tx off triggers the kill switch to the off position.

Last trial, I leave the rx on and switch the tx off for 5 minutes. Upon return of power to the tx and the 3rd channel is working again, repeatedly as well as when power is off @ the tx. This works as it should for a minute or 2 then it stops again.

My conclusion is the 3rd channel is faulty somewhere along the lines and it's time/heat related. I was looking in the wrong place.

Now what to do, it's 13 months old - maybe 14 months. It's been playing up since May iirc

I would like to thank everyone who's offered help and advice. It's been difficult to track down due to the time element. On the bench I'd have only had it all switched on for a minute or so to test.

I hope this may help others,
Steve

[Pipeous]

I hear ya, I am still fighting through a glitch in my rally. had a runaway yesterday too. I have swapped everything in it now... appears to be a battery problem for me. very intermittant so hard to track down. and it seems to be in 2 different batteries

[banners]

sounds like a pcb track lifting or something similar. Are the pins nice and clean? They do tarnish over time.

edit:
I'm assuming you've not swapped the rx in the above statement

[mynameismud76]

I follow your logic there Banners, where do you think the extra heat is coming from?

[banners]

just the electronics inside the tx. I doubt it'll be much, I've emailed the seller. If I get no joy I'll have a look myself. It's one of those things that tends to get dropped from time to time too which won't help

I forgot until this evening my brother in law has one virtually unused. I'm gonna double check my findings tomorrow.

You nearly ready fella? :excited:

[mynameismud76]

That'd be sweet if he's not using the TX!! :punk:

I'm personally ready, but the buggy (though, is usuable) isn't 100%

Missing a rear hub (broke it committing to the cross over!!LOL), and the diffs need sorting out.

You ready? Beside TX/killswitch issues.

[Pipeous]

I had swapped out my nutech rx for a spektrum and disconnected my v2 kill switch. if it had been the nutech radio I wouldn't have had the runaway cuz the kill switch would have been hooked up. and of course I didn't set the failsafe on the spekky since it was a test swap :P

I got a couple new rx's from vancouver hobbies today so will swap some stuff around. it's been too hot to get in the garage until now

[banners]

good luck with it mate.

Update:
I've borrowed my brother in laws handset and it's been fine - over 2 hours of testing time and it's been faultless.

Ansmann have been made aware of the issue - lets see what happens ;)

[mynameismud76]

Cool, glad you got it sorted Banners :dance:

Not long to go now buddy :punk:

[Pipeous]

I found a bad solder joint in the lipo so looks like that issue is solved. I was going to put a new rx in but they won't bind to my nutech radio. so I guess I go back to the old nutech rx and hope it was just the lipo... at least I have a kill switch.

now to test the spekky back in the bike to see if maybe I have a bad servo cuz all the channels work in the car? man I hate trouble shooting stuff sometimes. it works here but not here. my bud has a couple radios that work in some rc's but not others. stuff like this is baffling as it shouldn't be

I was thinking I had the spekky set on fast frame rate and maybe for some odd reason my airtronics digi might not like fast speeds? seems odd since they cost more than hitecs but ya never know. can't test it now cuz I am not driving without a kill switch... and I might have bent my rally chassis (pretty sure it is, straight edge test is next). I was planning on making my own 8-10mm thick anyway, so no big deal there...

[mynameismud76]

Trouble shooting electronics isn't easy for me. Can't see what's happening, or not happening.

Not a fan of running without a killswitch either, but for racing it's fine. In an open field, that's a different matter all together.

[Pipeous]

even racing. I am lucky the curb was rounded but a rally car isn't supposed to get 6-7 feet of air LOL... that's like seeing a real rally getting 30-40 feet up haha

[mynameismud76]

LOL, true that!

Rally drivers are nuts!! Who does 70+mph on snow? On single lane, through trees?

They've got big hairy cahonna's

[hndaman1]

I always wondered this myself if the coil/flywheel is creating such a magnetic force around there to cause interference with the radio etc? just a thought?we also had problems with our AMB transponders not working to well either on the bajas, for some reason if you put them on the coil side?

[mooman007uk]

if you're using 2.4 you shouldn't get any interference from the mag, i've heard some FM radios glitch with gassers; and AM radios...forget about it

[mynameismud76]

I hear what you saying guys, but can't help but think that the electromagnetic field around the coil could possibly be interferring with my KillerBee killswitch. =(