Diff and shock oil ratings

[46u]

This really needs to be made a sticky! Check it out as now I understand the oil ratings and you will to if you look here.:yahoo:
http://www.twf8.ws/php/tip/shock.html

[mradlin]

Good info Jeff, I made it a sticky. :good idea:

[mooman007uk]

you found it...same one i was on about...why there isn't one standard I don't know...yes i do a certain country refuses to go metric:D and the one i live in is metric but try and find metric stuff in regular stores?????
and my didge truck that's made in the certain country requires 2 sets of tools as it's half and half (but costs way more than $80 to get;):D..that was a long time ago before i got married I'll add)

[46u]

I know all the American cars and even my Harley Davidson has both metric and standard. I would rather them be all one or the other. Now if you go to get a ratchet like a 3/8 drive do they make them in metric? I cannot take credit for finding that link a guy on Large scale posted it to help me.

[mooman007uk]

never seen a 12.7mm ratchet ...OMG the metric system is flawed...nice one, I'd never thought about that

[bens_rc]

Thats the one I was trying to find :yahoo:
I don't know why everyone dosn't go with the standard, it will make it a lot easier when trying to work out the correct oils you want to use

[46u]

I don't know why everyone dosn't go with the standard, it will make it a lot easier when trying to work out the correct oils you want to use

I agree as I now have 2 Mugen and 1 Fast Eddie diff oils coming which in turn not sure what I am ending up with. I emailed Fast Eddie and asked how he measured his. I all so which I could find a better verity in the US. What Chris told me that came in from the factory I thinking about going ahead and see how it works with what comes in it.

[O.J.Racing]

Not sure how accurate this is, but you could give it a try.

http://www.offroad-cult.org/Special/cps_wt_umrechnung/cps_wt_convert.php

[Pipeous]

The link above is also fairly old. xray oils are cps now too

[O.J.Racing]

The link above is also fairly old. xray oils are cps now too

Yes the link is fairly old that’s true, however if it helps anyone out then it’s worth posting surely.

[Pipeous]

oh I know, I have been posting that link on forums for a long time now, it's in my favs

I just know xray had changed because I had asked Korgae from Canwest rc about the ratings and they had changed them since that was posted

[Mike1970]

I used to work for a stage building company who built stages with 8'x4' panels called steel deck, the company name was 8x4 productions - the name in metric wouldn't have been so catchy lol

[VINCE14]

HELLO

for race with TB2

i have put :
front differential 30000 CPS
center differential 12000 CPS
rear differential 5000 CPS

and is good.

Vince14

[VINCE14]

hello

After 2 french race,

here is my new set up:top secret:

front differential 40000cps
center differential : grease
rear differential : grease

vince 14

[hugo]

hi all out there,

I am trying out diff oils for my TB2.
Started with ootb setup (no silicon oil in any of the diffs).
Was all front wheel spinning like crazy really oversteer no fun.

Now after reading all input on the forum about the centre diff I have filled it up with the thickest silicon oil I could find (modelix racing oil 100k cps) , this make a big difference and good enough for me on the centre diff.

BUT I still have big problems when accelerating out of a corner to get the TB2 under control. I cannot get it into a straight line if i keep the power on. It keeps going from right to left and back.

I asked around and with the 1:8 scale racers they advice to have thicker oil in the front and thinner oil in the back, but here at this forum I think the general setup has thicker oil in the back diff?

Also would stiffer rear suspension help? standard only very small clips are coming with the TB2 I would need at least 7-10 mm clips on the rear to get the suspension stiffer?

any feedback much appiciated...tx in advance.

hugo

[VINCE14]

hello
the better septup we have find in france, with other Nutech driver
is front 500000cps
center 60000cps
rear 20000cps

good test


Vince 14
Nutechracing driver

[bentley marshall]

at the moment im running 100,000 front locked center and 50,000 rear

the locked center made a huge improvment in traction ..

[Pipeous]

I had 100k center, 50k front and 30k rear but since my center dif locked itself, I have left it and like it

the thing with locking up the center dif is it transfers the power to front and rear difs equal. this can make the handling squirrely when the front or rear end breaks loose. tuning the front and back difs to get it to do what you want from there.

the thicker the front, the more it will pull the car around out of a corner but will have less turn in going into a corner and will push a bit.

the rear, the thicker it is the more straight line traction you will have but the tendancy to have the back end break loose on power coming out of a corner.

You will have to experiment a bit to find what feels right for your driving style. and the best explanation I have ever seen for setup help is the xray xb8 manual. you can download a copy from xray or my fav place www.rcdocuments.com (thanks fast Eddy for supplying this useful resource site. please upload/send him any manuals that aren't there to keep it growing)

the xray manual has pics and a graph to show when you change something, it affects the car this way. I learned so much about setup from that manual and still use it for reference today

[hugo]

Tx for this feedback, the manual is great indeed!

hugo

[NutechNL]

found this while surfing the inter web, thought it might be useful to some, helped me alot.

Need to grab hold of a polished shaft without damaging it? Something like a shock shaft or a fork leg?

You need the Sticky Rubber Trick!

1) Cut out a long rectangle of rubber from an old inner tube. Enough to go around the object several times.

2) Spritz the rubber with brake or carb cleaner and quickly wipe off the powder and other gunk. You need the rubber to be fairly clean. (Clean the object you're clamping while you're at it.)

3) Spritz it again, and let the solvent soak in a bit, making the rubber sorta sticky.

4) Wrap the rubber tightly around said shiny object several times.

5) Clamp around the thick rubber glob using whatever abusive method works best -- Vice grips, vice, etc.

6) Marvel as the sticky rubber gives plenty of traction to keep the part from rotating or moving, yet the layers of rubber protect it from the jaws of the securing device.

[mynameismud76]

Cool tip, thanks David!!

Didn't realise those solvents were strong enough to react with rubber.

Sweet as a nut!!

[Pipeous]

oh ya, I wipe door seals and wiper blades on 1:1 cars with solvent. solvent is also label remover (just a higher grade of solvent). Great idea though