Diferential ball drive system

[sickboy]

:good idea:Hi all i see that nutech have missed something that would be a majour benfit to the tb2 that would be as the titel says
Here is what im talking about
http://www.rc-car-online-shop.de/cgi-bin/cosmoshop/lshop.cgi?action=showdetail&wkid=22623&ls=e&nc=1262172156-22757&rubnum=&artnum=carson_306007&file=&gesamt_zeilen=0Tsuche--ball%20drive

I have this on my fg mt for bashing and man dose that take a bashin i used to have the old dog bone system that kept on snapping on me so i converted to the ball drive system and ever since then ive never looked back
the thing i like most about this set up is there s no play in the cups any more what i mean is when you turn the wheels you will see the wheel turns before the actual cups and dog bones
So there would be quicker of the mark less were and tear on the cups also no need to replace cups if broken as like i said less were the only thing that you would have to buy depending on the driver of course is the small balls that fit into the cups and the rubber spacers for ball drive system

So i ask nutech kindly to think about this as in my opinion theres nothing better it would be a nice option

[dc2 man]

i already posted up a thread on same thing but got not reply yet.

maybe they are thinking about it. :boxing:

[sickboy]

doh well i didnt see that then any way now there's 2 threads they might just get the idea to do something with it come on nutech

[Pipeous]

I run the ball drive on my semi. they are so smooth and virtually no play like dogbones.

[mooman007uk]

I ran them on the rear of my FGbaja and hated them, got thru half a dozen cups and a4 shafts + countless balls...found they didn't allow enough suspension travel and the shafts hit the cup rim..I started with fg ones and tried the elcons too (used the elcon springs also). i found the cups got worn inside at the ball creating a notch ( caused by the lever action of shaft hitting cup rim I reckon)so they wouldn't run smooth and then the shaft would get stuck and be a bastard to get out cos the balls got stuck behind the notches. i know they worked well on the or roads that have much less suspension travel
I never tried the carson ones though...looks like I should have:rolleyes:..being designed for 4wd and steering they must allow more travel.

[dc2 man]

hey moo

i have run stock bones for ages and a week and they would be melted on my beetle with cad engine and the weight lol im telling you it was like they were made out of cheese.

sinse i upgraded to elcon balldrive amazing.......8-9 tanks later not a problem.....but there is a trick and you have got stuck in the problem,on my fg beetle i keep the rear a-arms as level with the rear of the chassis as possible as if i dont and persist with a high ride height and long suspension travel they will wear everything out at an alarming rate........common sense really,if something has so many rotating points and is rotating against the grain its going to wear out something.

this i believe was your problem,you were running too high,you should have lowered the ride height,some people over look these simple studs with lock nut attached on the rear a-arms and dont bother lowering it.

i guarantee you were riding that car high.....


i have given all my stock shafts and dog bones to fellas on rcu as they were crap

[sickboy]

yep dc2man i wouldn't have it any other way ball drive all the way for me sir

hi mooman wat problems did you have then with the ball drive system lay it out on us exactly wat you mean then maybes nutech will try to sort that out and make you even happier
That's what nutech are here for to listen and work things out and make us all happy gassers don't you think

[mooman007uk]

I was running DPS alloy arms which allowed alot of arm travel, my ride height was with level arms but droop and arm stuff was way more than stock ball end arms...that's why I got the dps ones like the eclon arms they're hinged on pins...even though i could limit the droop it with the upper arm adjuster but i still had too much up travel with the fg threaded all alloy upgrade shocks which allowed the shaft to hit the edge of the cup rim. The ball grooves in the diff and outdrive cups would wear and get play and not run smoothly. A slightly shallower cup on each end and the shaft slightly skinner at the ball ends would have cured this (or better still larger diameter ball end and cups ) with the longer MT arms the added length of the shaft should also overcome the interference of shaft and cup rim but the steering outdrive cups will have to be the perfect depth so you can get full lock and not have the shaft hit the cup.

[NUTECH RACING]

We are working on some options for dog bone and cvd, not finalized yet.:top secret:

[sickboy]

See now that what i like to see nutech are on the job good news
Here's a wat fg have done to solve there steering ball driver set up and it seems to hold up very very well
i know a few fg 4wd lads over here and they used to have the problem of the dog bone popping out so what they were resolved to doing was more positive camber on the front wheels and that stopped the dog bones popping out but now that i have the ball drive and the other lads to this has solved that problem once and for all never looked back since so i think this would be the best way to go

[mooman007uk]

now that is the bomb

[Clubin]

See now that what i like to see nutech are on the job good news
Here's a wat fg have done to solve there steering ball driver set up and it seems to hold up very very well
i know a few fg 4wd lads over here and they used to have the problem of the dog bone popping out so what they were resolved to doing was more positive camber on the front wheels and that stopped the dog bones popping out but now that i have the ball drive and the other lads to this has solved that problem once and for all never looked back since so i think this would be the best way to go

Lee, that is a great looking set of cv's. B-E-A-U-T-I-F-U-L.