Gt5-r set up tips

[dc2 man]

Well i just want to point out some handy pointers for the GT5-R out of the box,these tips are very small things that will turn an awesome machine in to an even better one out of the box.

1/ body trimming required to get bodyshell sitting nice and tidy on chassis

2/ cut out some air ventilation to the car,remove windows as desired but leave the front for areo dynamics,i usually get a nice sized dowel drill bit and drill on front screen and rear and one side,this allows for plenty air flow.

3/ strip and threadlock all shocks from new and make sure that they are nice and tight,these shocks are great and are completly machined alloy pieces through out and allow lots of adjustments.

4/ replace the 40tooth alloy spur gear with plastic or delrin (white)gear

5/ GRP elligi mediums all round (sticky rubber) essential!

6/ adjust ride height to suit conditions and your running area,your better off running as low and as hard as possible for optimum handling.i always have my cars sitting on the road.but hard as not to scuff up chassis on road.

7/ now is a great time to adjust your shocks springs and preload,the shocks have adjustment collars on top so you can screw them tighter to suit or opposite.

8/ good servos out of the box are a great upgrade,i use nothing less than the great all rounder hitec 5745 MG

9/ nutechs transmittors and recievers are awesome and no need imo to be changed at all.

10/ i always upgrade to 4500 mah pack out of box.

this is all i can think of right now,so safe running and enjoy the hobby!

regards
DC2 MAN ;)

my GT5-R review
http://www.nutechracingforum.com/vb/showthread.php?t=188

[RCKIWI]

Setting up your on road car!

Best starting point is to make sure the chassis is square! No matter what you adjust or change if the car isn't square it is going to be a total waste of time!!!

Check your ballends are tight, no slop then get the chassis square. Start at the back of the car and make sure the arms are the same length from side to side, meaning the turnbuckle adjusters especially the front ones on the arm's.

Next if you use your side body posts prob the front ones, measure from the end of those to a known center point of the chassis at the back and see if they are the same length, if they are you will know then the posts are a good point for measuring from. Next measure from the rear hubs to the posts on each side and make sure they are the same length and adjust the rear turnbuckle on lower arm only to get them the same.

Now you can move to the front suspension and measure from the posts to front hub axle, when they are the same you can now measure the wheelbase each side when that is correct measure from the front hub center bolts diagonally to the same point on lower arm each side, if they are the same length your chassis is square!!!!

Find yourself a nice flat board or pce glass etc big enuff for the whole car to sit on.
You can start setting your droop's front and rear and check swaybars for any binding and make sure they are adjusted correctly.

Fit a preferably new set of wheels and adjust your cambers I like to run 3deg on the rear and 0deg front, but always do this measurement with the chassis pushed to the deck! For rear toe-in I use a straight edge at least 700mm long across the the outside face of the rear wheels inline with axle nut and let sit on the front wheels I run between 1/4 to 1/2 of the front tyre. I usually run between 0-3deg toe-out in the front. Shock oils I would start with 5000 in the front and 3000 rear then change springs to see if any different.

Good luck and I hope some of this helps!