PDA

View Full Version : Tb2



Pipeous
02-06-2010, 03:47 AM
This arrived today. I am just tinkering with it and checking things over. This is a pre production model so I'll have to work through a couple things as I go.

To start with first impressions...

The good
Biggest thickest shock shafts I have ever seen.
Helical cut gears are usually exclusive aftermarket items.
Tires are decent and sticky. Look like Crime Fighters.
Lots of aluminum goodies stock. All the important parts are allready covered
Servos are big beasts with built in heat sinks.
Tank is beef as is the cap and threads.
Lighter than I expected it to be.
Thick dogbones

The bad
Body seems kind of cheap. we'll see how it holds up. lucky it's a buggy and won't take much abuse.
Radio tray makes finding a battery to fit a pain. I like lipos with a bec, so probably going to have to get a custom sized lipo to fit. and not much room on the chassis. I have been placing a couple all over to see what I can do and scratching my head (decided to post some pics while I think about it some more)

All in all I can't wait to take this thing out for a burn. I took a couple pics beside mt FG VW. The FG has Firehammer MT arms so is actually wider than a stock FG. You can see the length and width comparisons. I took a side shot to show the balance and COG

Pipeous
02-06-2010, 03:48 AM
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0001.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0002.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0003.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0004.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0005.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0006.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0007.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0008.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0009.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0010.jpg

dc2 man
02-06-2010, 03:53 AM
sweet man!

thats going to look awesome with the beetle shell,hey best of luck with it.

looking forward to a vid

Pipeous
02-06-2010, 04:13 AM
nah Beetle was just for wb comparison It's home is the FG. eventually it will be a 4wd on road car with F1 tires, I was just waiting for my Nutech to arrive as it's my only big off roader. The Beetle sheel and undertray makes cleaning it a pain, much better suited to on road, which is honestly my favourite. I like coming home, 5 seconds with the air compressor and toss on the shelf and top the rx battery up for next time... no fuss no muss.

this is my offroader. I am going to get the fibreglass buggy body from sickboy for this one next. I love the work he does. The VW paint is chipping off so I am going to get my paint job underneath back and just touch up the bad spots with the airbrush

CAR-KILLER
02-06-2010, 07:52 AM
aaaaaaawwwwwwwwwwww you got a rear pipe still waiting for mine ...the buggy looks 100% the same as our punishers.. im glad you got it back i hope you get time to run it this weekend......i think i can say on behalf of all of us " WHATS THE PIPE SOUND LIKE " and "GOT ANY VIDEO OF IT RUNNING"

RCKIWI
02-06-2010, 08:34 AM
Looks awesome I can't wait to try one of those Jetpro's!

I run 2S lipo 2200Mah fits perfect in std radio box! No BEC! never fried a servo yet and I run Hitec 7955 and just trying out the new 5755MG Hitec's equivalent to Digi 4 Rhino! and seems just as good as Digi 4 so far!

Pipeous
02-06-2010, 08:43 AM
I put the silencer on. I like how it angles out from the rim and it bolts to the rear bumper.
I didn't even add the zap straps as it's really secure
Took a pic of the radio too. It has dual rates for both channels, epa's for both and trims.

Sunday I will get to play. I have a big SUV to detail in about 8 hrs. I got a 6 cel 4600 pack from a bud that has a bad cel. jusy charging each cel individually now to make a pack. so far one bad cel and charging the second. so 50% succes ratio.

I still like to run at 6v. I traded some stuff here for a castle bec and this battery pack. I am placing a hobby city order again soon so will hunt the lipos and find one that fits this box

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0001-1.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0002-1.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0003-1.jpg

dc2 man
02-06-2010, 11:17 AM
that jetpro LOOKS WICKED!

i love mine,i think they are a great performer.
have they the mounting brackets/points issues all sorted in the new range of pipes as the older ones like mine you had to do some work to get them sitting properly.?

Pipeous
02-06-2010, 04:18 PM
fits like a glove no mods needed (other than a small trim to the body). even the silencer I just unscrewed the bolt from the bumper, pushed it on as far as it would go and screwed it into place. always liked jet pro pipes. they are tough as hell. my mt pipe saw many a crash and bash and never ever got dented.

There was no room in my box for the side pipe so I have this one to play with for a bit until the other arrives. it gives me time to test before I swap. probably a good thing or I'd be swapping daily and undecided hehe

Pipeous
02-07-2010, 06:38 AM
I figured how to get a 3s lipo in the box... I cut the box bottom on motor side. my lipo sticks out there and just under the motor. it was tight but made it. Just waiting for the shoe goo to dry now. Then I'll wire in the bec and switch.

I also shoe goo and drywall taped the nose part. I dremmelled the pull start hole wider to make it easier to get the body on and off. and added a hole for finger to rach the kill switch...

I also ordered a couple v2 rckillswitches. I should be able to setup the electronics shortly so I can take it out for it's maiden voyage. xXBlindXx has been bugging me to go running for a couple days. Now that I can get the battery going (thought I was going to have to go buy something) I am pumped. I can also strip the vw now.

are the tb2 a square wheel hub like fg? Haven't even pulled mine off

mradlin
02-07-2010, 07:12 AM
I figured how to get a 3s lipo in the box... I cut the box bottom on motor side. my lipo sticks out there and just under the motor. it was tight but made it. Just waiting for the shoe goo to dry now. Then I'll wire in the bec and switch.

I also shoe goo and drywall taped the nose part. I dremmelled the pull start hole wider to make it easier to get the body on and off. and added a hole for finger to rach the kill switch...

I also ordered a couple v2 rckillswitches. I should be able to setup the electronics shortly so I can take it out for it's maiden voyage. xXBlindXx has been bugging me to go running for a couple days. Now that I can get the battery going (thought I was going to have to go buy something) I am pumped. I can also strip the vw now.

are the tb2 a square wheel hub like fg? Haven't even pulled mine off

Yup, the whell squares are the same as FG.

Pipeous
02-07-2010, 07:20 AM
Added hard foam to keep the body safe. a rectangle across between the rear body posts and I made an L from the tower to the top of the steering plate. it is goping to take a little push to get the body pins in but at least it will be supported by more than just the thin part at the tower. glue is drying...

these receivers that come with them,. I am going to try binding to a couple of my other radios and see. I think my eurgle will work. if so I have a 3rd channel

mradlin
02-07-2010, 07:28 AM
Sounding great so far Barry. I can't wait to see your finished project. :excited:

Pipeous
02-07-2010, 07:28 PM
The castle bec I picked up goes all glitchy after I work the servos. it's like they draw too much load for the bec. I had a smaller 2 amp bec I tried and it worked without glitching but got super hot and actually started melting the plastic. Bud is finding me another bec to replace this castle creations one. I thought the radio was goofy so tried my spekky and it twitched with that one too. so I knew it was the bec

I took a couple pics and a short vid to show what I have done so far.

Pipeous
02-07-2010, 08:29 PM
Here's some pics of my shoe goo/drywall tape mod to body. I strengthened the weak area and also added some wherever the body will rub to save the paint a bit.
Also a couple pics to show my radio box cut to fit the lipo and my foam body supports

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0001-2.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0002-2.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0003-2.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0004-1.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0005-1.jpg

Pipeous
02-07-2010, 08:30 PM
Here's a video to show the strength this has added
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/th_DSCI0006-1.jpg (http://s304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/?action=view&current=DSCI0006-1.flv)

mradlin
02-07-2010, 10:04 PM
It's coming along Barry. When are you taking it out for a run?

Pipeous
02-08-2010, 12:02 AM
I just now finally worked out my gitching... these servos are power pigs. no lie. if I used both throttle and steering I could load up the 10 amp castle bec. I tried different radio combos, tested it with a gws servo fine. I tried a 2 amp bec... so hot the plastic was turning. pulled the bec out of the vw and tried it... same deal. tried at 5.1v better lasted longer before glitching, tried on 4.8v... tried 2 bec's in parallel with a Y cable. bingo. tried with a castel and 2 amp, 2 amp hates this buggy and got disconnected.

with 2 bec's at 6v these servos I will say are super fast and strong. so now a little more soldering... I'll get a new bec for vw, I want to strip it anyway. I'll change the servos later but have to order some. it rained today (raining now too) so I decided to work on other stuff. I have to clean the vw for running on a day like today hehe

Pipeous
02-11-2010, 12:34 AM
Further testing today. Both servos are crap. The servo even alone with no load draws so much power it makes the light blink on the bec. The servos ar a bit smaller than the gws, or say hitec 805. the gws wouldn't fit once I pulled the stocker.

so with both servos failing... thw gws is fine and I can add a horn and hold it firm, overload the servo and nothing. they both run 3 tower pro gigis and hitec digis...

so I just ordered 2 5745's off ebay. should arrive about when the kill switches show up. those servos aren't much good in the buggy. they get hot without a load on bottom. can you imagine the hole in the gas tank if the steering servo had melted? could have been a blazing inferno

Clubin
02-11-2010, 02:08 AM
I thought there was somthing wrong with my reciever battery. It wouldn't last a tank. I agree the servo's must be gobbling up the power. Mine are always twitching trying to centre. I am going to install my DX3R and 2 5745's this weekend.

RCKIWI
02-11-2010, 03:36 AM
I have had my fair share of std rtr servos crap out, but the ones in the GT5-R have lasted awhile and I was using with a 1600mah 1/8 hump pack? But the last run my throttle servo wouldn't center in the same place all the time, so I put a 5745 in the steering and std steering to throttle just until I make a top deck for it!

Pipeous
02-11-2010, 05:16 AM
when the gt5r arrives I will just pull and toss the junk servos. I won't take a chance on them

Pipeous
02-18-2010, 09:04 PM
Well I got kinda lucky today. I really didn't feel like working tbh. I went to my appt and they weren't home. Usually when they go out they leave the vehicle in one or 2 spots. I know where everything is and the dog is awesome. Guess they forgot... I never make it to the one hobby shop out there so decided to stop in.... they had 2 Hitec 5745 mg's in stock. Yoink (I'll save the other 2 I ordered for the GT5R).

So the TB2 is sitting on the table to install the servos. I also picked up what I needed to get my nitro bike running. I'll have this and the bike ready for the afternoon to go play a little and break them in, get them tuned.

Pipeous
02-19-2010, 01:25 AM
I haven't done anything to the steering rod as above but I wanted to say that the stocker actually have to be careful. Now that I have full steering, the plastic rod end closest to the servo saver actually hits the dogbone now. I installed my Hitec 9745 mg's and just cut one of the aluminum incl servo horns in half for the steering side. at full epa it goes to just about knuckles hitting c hub. the Hitec servo horn is actually a hair longer than stock too...

So to go and play I am going to leave the stock one in and just shim onder the metal part of the ball end to lift it a tap. there's still a fair bit of thread left on the bolt anyway. If you are still running the stock steering rod, then I would look close. it actually puts pressure on the dogbone so for those that bent them it might just be for that reason

Pipeous
02-19-2010, 01:35 AM
You can see what I mean in the pics here.
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0001-4.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0002-4.jpg

mooman007uk
02-19-2010, 02:17 AM
yep mine did that too, now there is a nut underneath the standoff which raises it at the bellcrank end and it clears the shaft..I ended up snapping both plastic ends and bending the rod...Mike kindly sent me an FG turnbukle and 2 rod ends so now it's stoocum

Pipeous
02-19-2010, 05:06 AM
I'll worry about it tomorrow night after I play. it should be a little better with the buggy tires. with about a 2mm nut under it clears and the ball goes over the dogbone

well it's ready to rumble. I'll hit Sungod arena parking lot tomorrow and get the nutech and nitro bike broken in and tuned up. Nice. I have all of my rc's functioning and useable aside from the broken dirt bike but I can't get the new one way until mid march now...

dc2 man
02-19-2010, 10:23 AM
wouldnt you think these things should at least come with good quality servos for that money......

i had the same complaint with my GT5-R servos were crap.

i suppose for a good machine its a small complaint but still i think nutech should get it sorted and just use hitecs like a lot of other rtr models

i mean this looks bad for an r/c out of the box. (just my opinion)

i told nutech this long time ago when i done the GT5-R review.

mooman007uk
02-19-2010, 03:57 PM
Chris has already approached hitec but they're out to lunch on their pricing...being owned by german co multiplex and supplying german co FG it is hard to get a good price, he's also tried bluebird and now has approached savox...nutech are more than aware of the problem and have been trying to source a good supplier that has a reasonable unit price for some time now

dc2 man
02-19-2010, 04:20 PM
well i partly guessed they had it in mind,but you know how some customers can be.....it looks bad out of the box cheap servos that could do a runaway and hurt somebody and destroy a nice expensive R/C

i myself wouldnt let one out of my sight with these servos.

im on nutechs side here and i think the likes of a hitec 5745 are the best "all rounder" in all aspects,whilst obviously not the best,a good price and good relibility

last thing any r/c manufactuer needs is complaints about rubbish servos to cheapen the overall package.

otherwise (good idea also) NO servos & no rtr but a price drop maybe would be more appealing.

let the customer get there own serovs of choice.

obviously i think nutechs models are a great price and its nice to get something out of the box with servos installed but i think they should avoid the cheapos....

On the other side of the coin nutechs R/C transmittors and recievers IMO are class and extremly high quality....i have 2 and they never even glitched.

(p.s pipe,sorry for going slightly offtopic)

Pipeous
02-19-2010, 09:24 PM
not off topic at all. I agree ;)

I have 2 servos here that I can't in good faith even sell to someone because I know of the problems... not sure what to do with them. maybe save the gears to see if they fit something else

dc2 man
02-19-2010, 10:34 PM
yeah its really anoying....

i had the same two servos and one day at WOT throttle whilst flat out in the GT5-R for no apparent reason just locked stuck on full throttle (caused me some damage when the fense stopped it lol)...there was no gear malfuction of any sort upon inspection,in fact they were all fine......even a metal gear in there.

i think the problem lies in the little motors,they just die......you may be lucky and get good run time but would you take the gamble.?

the other servo remarkably was fine but the outer casings just litterly fell apart complete.....so the moisture got in and caked that too.

if these servo manufactures got there act together in china like the chinese r/c companies are i guarantee they would hit the other servo companies hard considering the level nutech are competing at now.

imagine a good rock solid servo from china .....imagine the price differnce? :good idea: i look forward to seeing that!


oterwise great looking machine pipeous....lucky you!

mooman007uk
02-20-2010, 02:15 AM
and where was your killswitch? I wont run without one..it's the first thing that goes on my rc's before I even start them..I know you've heard it from me before but they're very cheap insurance

Pipeous
02-20-2010, 04:11 AM
I took the Nutech out today and got to rip it around a bit. I set my brakes at home a bit softer and all seemed fine. I was in a parking lot like bike vid and just wanted to burn some fuel and eventually some high speed passes to tune it. I turned up the brakes a bit after a few passes and that eventually was the problem... the linkages are sticking a bit and when I put more brake in it was applying throttle as I let the brakes off... my kill switches arrived today so that's going in tonight and I will adjust the linkages, add some stuff to make sure they don't stick...
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/th_DSCI0002-5.jpg (http://s304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/?action=view&current=DSCI0002-5.flv)

Pipeous
02-20-2010, 11:07 AM
Hey guys, I can't make it Sunday. I can't get my partner to cover my shift. He has some Olympic crap going on. I need a bash day when the shipping container arrives though hehe. I am going to rip the nutech apart and do the maintenance stuff it needs. I want to mouunt the external led in the side of the fan housing above the rx box, mesh mod the crankcase and stuff.

I put an hpi filter and outerwears on. I will mesh mod the pull start too. I wanted to try it and I have. Now it's time to get it ready before I really take it on a serious bash session. Tomorrow night. I have to go painting in 6 hrs

I also sold my VW tonight. Got home from playing and he had emailed me 3 or 4 times, sent pm's called... lives close to a couple guys we run with and the one on road spot we go. gets us another person to run with... had to make room for my xt5 anyway :D

dc2 man
02-20-2010, 11:57 AM
and where was your killswitch? I wont run without one..it's the first thing that goes on my rc's before I even start them..I know you've heard it from me before but they're very cheap insurance


hey moo i have a killswitch fitted now for ages!

but i dont like them,when i first fitted a killswitch 2 years ago it wouldnt start due to the slightest bit of moisture......man they are a pain to say the least being honest when they go wrong,and they do!

if you run as often as i do the least mecanical trouble the better! :D

i have this one in now and its ok for now anyway

they are used on planes etc,same as the rest

http://bennettbuilt.com/page10.htm

what do we save eactly with these models at the moment.

please be a little understanding here now and take honest opinions on board with out overeacting.this is an open forum and we are all allowed to express honesty.

when i got my GT5-R i was landed with a huge customs bill for over 300euro.

also the servos cost me over 200euros....

by the time i had it running it was an expensive model.

so what is the situation with nutech with these cheap servos?

i think they need to look at there prices a lot.

now if nutech kept there prices with "good servos" then it would really great.

Pipeous
02-20-2010, 06:30 PM
I gave the servos away last night. my fg vw got delivered to a friend. talked me into selling it. means I have room for an xt5 in here now.

anyway, off to work and I'll tweak the tb2 tonight and watch some olympics

Pipeous
02-22-2010, 08:19 PM
The throttle linkage had a kink in it and was binding the part that slides. I got it pretty much straight then took the files to it, then mover the collets around a bit. now it's working fine.

I also installed my kill switch and mounted the remote led in the fan shroud. I backed the bulb with shoe goo as well. I can see it nicely through the window there.

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0001-5.jpg

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0002-6.jpg

mradlin
02-24-2010, 12:31 PM
Looks good Barry. I can't wait to see your vid. :dance:

Pipeous
02-24-2010, 09:47 PM
Just woke up. it rained all night at work, but the forecast looks good for tomorrow. I guess I will have to hit the track and take my giant squeegee to clear puddles.

and my bike the rx battery died. took 1200 mah. failsafe was just set wrong and I had to rebind the rx. only body damage. I am going to sit down and watch some olympic hockey and do some tinkering on the electric bike and parts now

Pipeous
02-25-2010, 07:53 PM
Sun has come out though there are a lot of puddles about. I am charging up the camera and going to find somehwere to make my buggy a mess. My neighbours want to run their nitro mt's so just waiting for them to get back from errands then we are heading out. I need a camera man, hard to twist around while driving. it's like shooting darts, I play better after a few beer because I relax and stand flat. LMAO

Pipeous
02-26-2010, 01:00 AM
Here ya go...

This is an old track that has been closed for a while. it was in rough shape. We took a few tools to clear the puddles. there were oceans all over. kids had busted up a lot of the drivers stand etc etc etc

first vid is my bud's MGT. last is a tmaxx and my tb2.

I have not changed the carb settings at all since I richened themn a bit before the idle in I did a while back.

The difs with grease I have to agree with Clubin'... it's a front wheel drive. really needs like 100k dif lube in center, at least 50k. I am going to tray 100 and 50 in my difs now....

Lost a lower c hub screw... I found the bushings from a NF 501 triple fit pretty close in there. I just have to make a secondary bushing to stop the threads... I was driving doing the jumps with the screw out and it was fine. steering locked once so I knew something was up...

and I just finished cleaning the pig

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/th_DSCI0006-2.jpg (http://s304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/?action=view&current=DSCI0006-2.flv)
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/th_DSCI0007-1.jpg (http://s304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/?action=view&current=DSCI0007-1.flv)
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/th_DSCI0008-1.jpg (http://s304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/?action=view&current=DSCI0008-1.flv)
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/th_DSCI0009-1.jpg (http://s304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/?action=view&current=DSCI0009-1.flv)
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/th_DSCI0010-1.jpg (http://s304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/?action=view&current=DSCI0010-1.jpg)
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/th_DSCI0011.jpg (http://s304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/?action=view&current=DSCI0011.jpg)

Pipeous
02-26-2010, 01:09 AM
It jumps really well though. those jumps were rough and other than traction roling going over that bump on an angle, it took the track in stride.

Browny
02-26-2010, 02:10 AM
:kewl pics: Thanks for posting the videos Pipeous. The TB2 looks good and sounds even better. It has plenty of speed down the back straight and grunt around the corners.

Wow, it is wet there. I bet you were cleaning for some time. Do you guys race or just bash?

Pipeous
02-26-2010, 02:41 AM
it rained all night and most of the morning. we had 2-3 foot deep puddles. took us about 2 hrs to get it that dry LOL. 3 of us with pick, shovel, rake and the giant squeegee.

i took the hose to it, then air compressor, brake cleaner on the bearings and liquid wrench to follow up.

motor still has room. it's still new and running rich. that was the first time I have gotten to drive it. I am loving it. handles like an 8th scale buggy. even jumping that mound we just tossed dirt, or the plywood sheet it flew straight and landed nicely.

we have one track we go to for bashing. big scale stuff is just getting popular. a friend just sent me a pm to say he got an hpi baja. so we add more as we go. we honestly get more on road guys but I got back into off road to bash with a large group and a few of those guys got on roads.

now to get the TB2 on the table and see what needs fixing. I have to hit the hobby store in the morning to get some dif lubes though. I can't leave it like this.

NUTECH RACING
02-26-2010, 05:58 AM
Love your "track" !

CAR-KILLER
02-26-2010, 07:53 AM
sweet mate the track could do with some work..will it get busted up again if you sorted the surface out...........the pipe sounds real good (still waiting for mine)

Browny
02-26-2010, 07:57 AM
2hrs of cleaning up. That is dedication!

I just ordered some diff oil too. I have been told 100 000 in the front and centre diff and grease in the back. I'll give that a go. I have the front end off now.

I went for a bash today at the local BMX track. Some of the jumps were a bit too big and I kept nose diving. I found a good spot just next to the track for some practise. We race on the 14th. Can't wait.

gordy p
02-26-2010, 08:33 AM
100k front is to hevy you will have nob all off power steering and a loose back end try 30k 100k 1k

mradlin
02-26-2010, 01:36 PM
Looks like it was a good track...back in the day.

Cool vids Barry!

So what's your opinion of the Jet Pro pipe? It looks like it winds up quite well.

Browny
02-26-2010, 06:56 PM
100k front is to hevy you will have nob all off power steering and a loose back end try 30k 100k 1k

Thanks Gordy. Do you use this set up to race?

Pipeous
02-26-2010, 07:32 PM
The club lost the land rights over a year ago tbh. politics and city land. it's useless land. basically it runs along the Fraser river and a slough behind us... the pillars in the background is a bridge and the fenced area is the ICBC storage yard for totalled cars. we are hoping to get the track back up and operational this year.... I am just waiting on the go to get my reporter friend involved that works in gov't policy.

For now we will just fix a few things to be able to play as there is a big pile of dirt there to fix jumps and such. Though Full Throttle Raceway should be opening again soon (it's on private land). I just have to get the owner to open his mind to more track ideas. oval is no fun to me. oh and those other 2 guys in the video I just got into rc about a month ago... they both want Nutech Mega monsters now.. see I am doing my job LOL

Here are a couple pics to show what it used to look like
http://www.riversideraceway.ca/files/pictures/riverside-long.jpg
http://www.riversideraceway.ca/files/pictures/riverside2008pano.JPG

I love this pipe. Being rich it still had lots of power and fairly quiet

sickboy
02-26-2010, 10:24 PM
Nice vids Barry ,I bet you just cant wait to open here op full throttle ,and the track looks so sweet i just cant believe they closed it down .
Well i hope you get it sorted for you and your pals

gordy p
02-28-2010, 08:32 PM
sorry mate yes it is

Pipeous
03-01-2010, 01:29 AM
Dif oil is subjective... depends on your driving style. I know guys that are super fast with 8th scale buggies that run 100k in the fronts. I usually prefer a lot less in mine...

with weight we'll see. I had an xray xb8, and front to back ran 3,3,5. that worked the best for that buggy. seemed od but 7,10,3 absolutley sucked but is my standard starting point for most 8th scales... it'll take some experimentation to see what works... I have a large order going in to restock all my dif and shock oils now

RCKIWI
03-01-2010, 02:33 AM
Yep diff weights really depend on your driving style! I find 100-100-3k works good for me or 100k-locked-5k

Pipeous
03-03-2010, 06:45 AM
I picked up these today. A crawler bud sold me 4 sets of these today. pretty beefy. Made for doing links on clods but will do justice to my steering rod. I just need to find some 5mm rod to fit now.

they might even fit the steering rods at the knuckle. same length as the stock ones once the locking nut is added, but don't really have enough pivot

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0002-7.jpg

RCKIWI
03-03-2010, 07:37 AM
I've got some of those from Integy

Pipeous
03-03-2010, 05:20 PM
they are sure beefy. they'll make good steering.

if they work out I'll have 3 extra pairs. I paid $5 a pair

Browny
03-04-2010, 03:17 AM
How much oil do I out in the diffs? Do I just cover up the gears/cogs or do I fill the whole case with oil?

Browny
03-04-2010, 03:38 AM
No need to reply. Bryan has told me.

Pipeous
03-04-2010, 07:27 PM
Well not full, you need expansion room... just to the pins, though you can tune it as well by how much you put in.

hey it's my thread, I can babble about petunias if I want LOL

Browny
03-04-2010, 09:12 PM
Fair enough mate.....fair enough. I also asked Bryan on his shop site. Thanks for the info though.

Pipeous
03-05-2010, 10:00 AM
It's all good, just having some fun.

I had to get some aluminum rod and cut threads myself. it was a bit thicket than the threads needed so I had to cut bigger threads then tossed the rod in the drill and filed the threads off so I could get a smaller die on. got 3 feet for $2.99 so can make a few. I forgot about the twist so am short about mm but that shouldn't make a difference really.

I have enough stuff to make 3 more...

mradlin
03-05-2010, 01:50 PM
Looks really good Barry.

I can't wait to see how it looks installed.

Pipeous
03-08-2010, 05:33 PM
Well it's installed now. I have the TB2 on the table and half ripped apart. I had to cut some long bolts to fit as the stockers were too short. under the servo saver side I used an fg ball end for clearance. I see marks on the dogbone so even though I had it spaced it still rubbed a little. so I made sure this time... One issue I see is I need the aluminum servo saver now as I see the flex with the rigid rod (man been watching a lot of scrubs so that made me think of Todd lol). I think it worked out well. smooth and rigid. I am going right through all the steering components today and making/modifying it all. I told the girls the dining room table is mine until next morning so they get to eat in front of the tv tonight haha

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0001-6.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0003-3.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0004-2.jpg

sickboy
03-08-2010, 08:26 PM
Nice Barry looking good,i still have to get this done to my mt but not had much time as of yet.
Any chance of a video

Pipeous
03-08-2010, 09:45 PM
I'll take a vid once I get it back together. doing the whole front end now

I had to use one of the plastic servo horns over the aluminum one as it was a tad bit longer. I was losing full lock as the new rod hit the dogbone turning left now. so that's fixed. I really saw it when apart.

I tightened some things up and such whie it was apart. Now I am making new bushings and bolts for the knuckle and c hub. Lower side. I noticed when I had it all apart that the unthreaded area of the hinge pin going through the bushing is actually not enough when you add in the thickness of the c hub. so when tightened down, the bushing pivots in the plastic instead of the metal. this is why the screws come loose too.. I have a couple big bushings from my NF bike I used to own (it got bearings and I have none left here hehe). I am just going to cut it down some. I have some unthreaded bolts I am going to cut my own threads and leave enough so it pivots in the metal like it should.

I experimented with some ofna pillow balls and odds and ends, different bushings, materials, different tubing so one fit inside the other... I might still just drill the bushing out a bit and cut some stainless tube I have, still mulling that part over...

and hey Mooman, remember these fg parts I got in the box o stuff? finally found a use for them and I can go short 8mm rod and fg ends

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0002-8.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0001-7.jpg

Pipeous
03-08-2010, 10:33 PM
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/th_DSCI0001-8.jpg (http://s304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/?action=view&current=DSCI0001-8.flv)

Pipeous
03-09-2010, 01:54 PM
Sweet. a good sleep solves everything almost.., found my tap set. on the floor right beside me under a piece of paper... sometimes you just need to step away and come back to something... I should be able to get it ready for some bashing today... oh ya.

mradlin
03-09-2010, 02:05 PM
I really like what you've done there Barry. If you do get out with the Nutech today, please bring the camera. I want to see it rip! :punk:

Pipeous
03-09-2010, 02:59 PM
what sucks is it's too early to use my dremmel, unless I use it in the living room. garage is close to bedrooms and neighbours have a light sleeping baby. heard the cries enough to not start their morning off bad hehe

looks nice out right now. we actually got snow yesterday but garage isn't bad this morning. tools are a bit cold

Pipeous
03-09-2010, 07:18 PM
ok here's a couple more vids to show some changes. after I put it together and took it apart a few times, I had to dremmel the plastic bushings a bit for thickness. I thought it was snugging up when the threads hit the axle. after I cut some threads off I had to go back at the bushings for the top. it'll do until I get some bearings to finish it right

And I just ordered 100k, 50k, 30k, 5k and 3k dif oils from a main, plus 20wt to 100 wt shock oils. time to restock it all

My cnc lightened gyro for the dirt bike showed up too :D and my electronics and batteries for the drag bike are in vancouver customs. sure getting a lot of goodies arriving around now..

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/th_DSCI0002-10.jpg (http://s304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/?action=view&current=DSCI0002-10.flv)

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/th_DSCI0004-3.jpg (http://s304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/?action=view&current=DSCI0004-3.flv)

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/th_DSCI0001-10.jpg (http://s304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/?action=view&current=DSCI0001-10.flv)

sickboy
03-09-2010, 08:30 PM
Nice touch with the vids.
The plastic bushing really helps i did the same using the fg bushing,works a treat, holding up very well and takes all the play out of the stock bushing.

Pipeous
03-09-2010, 10:23 PM
I've gone a little further now and it's ready to go do some bashing. I just have to top the rx battery while the glue sets on the body mount. I did another non thread bolt in the upper outer front arm since I had it apart. Then I put a dab of shoe goo over the e clips to keep them in place... I hate losing clips.

The back end I put a couple new bolts in the rear upper arm. there wasn't enough thread, as mentioned somewhere else, in the top inner bolt, but there was no nut at all at the upright. so that's fixed now. I'll play with the fg extender piece later tonight

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/th_DSCI0001-11.jpg (http://s304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/?action=view&current=DSCI0001-11.flv)
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/th_DSCI0002-11.jpg (http://s304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/?action=view&current=DSCI0002-11.flv)
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0004-4.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0005-2.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0006-3.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0007-2.jpg

Pipeous
03-09-2010, 10:26 PM
I put pics of the set screws to show the bottoms. you can see it isn't flat. there's actually a dimple. this restricts the amount of surface area the setscrews have for a contact patch. I dremmel all the bottoms flat then loktite back in place. this keeps them much more secure

dc2 man
03-10-2010, 12:12 AM
looking good man.

looks like some nice meticolus work.

Clubin
03-10-2010, 12:20 AM
Nice mods barry.

Pipeous
03-10-2010, 01:55 AM
Thanks guys. We decided to go bash tomorrow. Bud has some stuff sticking in his and after popping over and seeing me doing all this, he went back home to fix his. I am making some rear upper arms now and using the same metal rod ends and aluminum as the steering rod, except I am putting a second aluminum sleeve over top in the middle for added strength. They won't be as adjustable but it's where I am liking it right now.

putting the fg part on means drilling new holes in parts so I'll save them for the semi.

Pipeous
03-10-2010, 05:31 AM
I just did a quick mod to the back upper arm so I could work on something else. Hands are tired of tapping threads now. I cut some aluminum tube to slide over the turnbuckle. then tightened it back up. it'll add a bit of support anyway for now. was easy with a pipe cutter.

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0001-12.jpg

Pipeous
03-12-2010, 03:24 PM
the lipo slid in under the motor nicely with room to spare. I could run all weekend on this bad boy. The container for my electronics will do until I find something else esthetically pleasing. but it is now almost waterproof (a couple dabs of shoe goo over the wires fixes that) and it's ready to play. Now I can get all my new lipos soldered with deans and finish my brushless bike. sunday looks like sun so we were talking about a bike get together. my nitro is dying for some action too. gotta give all the toys some love here and there.
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0001-13.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0002-12.jpg

Pipeous
05-13-2010, 05:21 AM
Been a while since I updated this thread... I stripped my buggy down to the chassis yesterday and installed 3 alloy dif cases and the front cvd's (I guess we should call these universals, technically they are uni's and not cvd's but hey)...

I did the center case first and had to take it apart 3 times... if you plan on doing the case upgrade, take 2 minutes and open the cases, take a fine round file and clean up the edges of the slot the internal gear pin rides in. I went around and smoothed of the edges. I found after I built mine the first time I was getting some binding... I looked and looked. I tried adding extra this and that, third time I decided to clean the dif out again and found some small metal flashing in the gears from machining... after a quick cleaning file and put back together, they bolted up just fine and were smooth... no diddling around. so I say again, file the groove and clean out any small flashing... it will save you my headaches...

next was the front end. Just take your time when doing the front or rear difs. the spring behind the pin in the output shafts can be a little tricky. I used an allen wrench just smaller than the spring, went in on an angle and pushed the spring below the hole so I could slide the pin in with needlenose pliers... go slow and make sure you get the pin hooking the spring... the one in the outer gear is easier to deal with... this case went together without much of a hitch and is very smooth.

I added the universals next. my first time through, I got everything bolted up and wow was it binding up bad... I popped the upper arm off, straightened the universal and wacked the end with a screwdriver handle... the bearing in the knuckle seated in properly and solved the issue... I was sure I had pushed it in far enough... so if things are binding, take a look at the bearing... I had to reduce the downtravel with the droop setscrew in the lower arm about 3-4mm to ensure there was a nice free spin without any binding. to me it's a good trade off to the positive..

I decided to do the mesh mod to my motor casing while it was out. I take bodyworking mesh from canadian tire to do mine. it has one side a little sticky so you can cut and place it. I use JB quik (fast drying jb weld) to holed it to the case. I forgot to take pics while the motor was out, but here's a couple pics with it in to show what I mean. you cover the openings in the bottom of the motor to keep pebbles out. one pebble can get in there, take out a flywheel fin, which starts a chain reaction and usually takes out more. then you need a flywheel to replace the wobby one.

by the time I got to the back dif it was getting late. I had to work today but needed to clean up the kitchen table or I'd get the usual attitude in the morning LOL... those bloody springs... I slipped off the spring, it flew out and hit my left eyebrow (I had actually taken my glasses with safety lenses off as my eyes were tired and got lucky there)... I had to do the crawl on my hands and search the carpet for the spring... also wear eye protection when doing these dif changes haha.

today I made a lid for an fg radio box which I put in to hold my rx, bec and kill switch. looks much better than the tupperware

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0009-2.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0008-2.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0007-3.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0011-1.jpg

mradlin
05-13-2010, 01:33 PM
Looks good Barry!
Those springs can be difficult. What I did is I took a peice of antenna tubing cut a slot in it and use it to hold the spring down and put the pin in.

mooman007uk
05-13-2010, 03:21 PM
have any trouble with the centre diff and pinion mesh? some get lucky with the alloy case and some have a hell of a time.
i use a small flat blade screw driver for that pesky spring...now the new diff cups have a spring that sticks out 3/8" just to add to the fiddleyness of it all.

you're ready for Galiano now Barry... I'll be heading over the weekend following Scott's order arriving...got cnc rear diff housing and hopefully another set of uni's coming...will call them that from now on cos they're a carden joint so don't run at a constant velocity...the new ones nutech are working on have a slotted ball like the MIP ones so may technically be a cvd

Pipeous
05-13-2010, 06:54 PM
I just had to clean out flashing in the dif cases otherwise mine is smooth. I am happy to finally have it done. Now I can play a bit. Even got my ofna done... today I am fixing my dirt bike up and I will have all my rc's repaired :O

I need to make some money for a couple weeks to catch up to all the spending I did in the last few weeks hehe. it's going to be tight. I must not order any more rc crap this month or I will have to sell something. I still have an order coming from Scott too for this thing (Nutech shock socks, alloy servo saver). It would sure be nice to get ahead of the game before the order arrives so I can just come pick the stuff up in person

one of the neighbours keeps bugging me to sell him my nitro bike, I might just do that and build another one in a month

Pipeous
05-18-2010, 10:44 PM
I just changed the steering a bit, fixed from the weekend's outing. I decided to dig out the fg box and found my container of wheel squares. I put 14mm wheels squares on. It widened the stance. I also found a problem I am looking into right now. Here's a video showing this.

well my 2 small gears on the pin are stuck in the dif case. they've managed to weld themselves to the pin. I pried and managed to move them up enough to clear the one on the output shaft but when spinning one with a screwdriver, the other spins too. I even tried to spin them opposite directions by prying and they won't budge. I am going to just order some new gears later and cut the pin. I put it back together and it's locked solid right now

http://vimeo.com/11846825

mynameismud76
05-19-2010, 12:48 AM
I remember having to bang quite firmly to get that pin in the alloy case.. I wonder if I have the same issue when I next dismantle the rear diff.

Are you still running 70k front, 100k centre and 30 rear?

mooman007uk
05-19-2010, 01:50 AM
if you had to bang it in it'll be a bitch trying to get it out:beat dead horse:

mine went in easy enough but one was pretty snug last time i stripped it to put new diff cups in

Sounds like you got a spool now Barry:excited:

Pipeous
05-19-2010, 05:21 PM
I like the spool. so not a big deal. we'll see how long it lasts...

I had 100k center, 50k front and 30k rear. I really like how that handles. just take a couple outings to get the feel. you can power the back end around coming out of a corner so let off the steering a little sooner to keep from oversteering. A little less forgiving than stock but more responsive to inputs.

the alloy cases need some filing to get them smooth to fit the pins. I should have spent more time on the center one I guess. front and rear are nice. I added half a decidam ear plug to the cups to center the long dogbone.

Today the GT5R transformation begins. (and I am helping my neighbour with his FG. Made him strip it down to the chassis last night). only way to learn is to build it up and do some mods hehe

the vimeo link above is a few short clips of the mods and such I put together

Pipeous
05-19-2010, 05:37 PM
well I managed to get my hands on some cobra racing balloon springs for the fg's. they are almost wide enough to fit the tb2 shocks. I am going to take the dremmel to the top ring and remove about half a mm and they should slide on. some progressive springs might just be the ticket for the back. I had tried them on the semi back before.
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/FG_Semi/DSCI0004-4.jpg

Pipeous
08-08-2010, 11:26 PM
Well I did some changes to the tb2. I tossed the stock F1 tires on and flipped the gears around for some top end. I have to say that it was a blast today. the lots were all wet so no fun for the 2wd cars but I was drifting the TB2 around. The tires barely saw any wear... amazed from the massive wheelspin haha. I think this setup will make it a contender on dry track. stickier tires would help but I will use these until the rubber flies off and call it my drifter.

I also screwed in the droop screws a lot but loosened off the front for more steering later and removed the shock spacers. with a bit of tweaking this thing will really handle the pavement well. I might even consider selling the rally...

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0005-3.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Pipeous/RC/Nutech_TB2/DSCI0006-1.jpg

Pipeous
08-08-2010, 11:28 PM
oh ya, I had to go back to the stock wheel squares as there wasn't enough thread on the backs to tighten the wheel nut. still pretty close and I will need to change to a new one as one rear came a bit loose today

mradlin
08-09-2010, 01:30 PM
How's it working as an onroad?

Pipeous
08-09-2010, 03:20 PM
it handles really well and flipping the gears gave it decent speed. on the wet pavement it was like driving the old drift cars we used to run with the pvc tires. I can't wait to get it out on the actual track. I think these hard tires will be fine with the 4wd and will last a long while

Pipeous
08-11-2010, 06:25 AM
Here's a little rain drifting with the F1 tires. sure was running rich. sorry, that's all the vid richard took.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OvxpoiKhWcg

mradlin
08-11-2010, 01:33 PM
She was sounding great after you dialed in the carb. Looks like some fun Pipeous. :punk:

Pipeous
08-12-2010, 04:52 PM
sad video I know. I had some problems with an air leak before so the carb was way out. I put the body on and ran for a bit after this... why he video'd this? oh well LOL

it's a lot of fun this way. we are setting up the track sunday for some fun so I'll get to see how it performs.

Pipeous
09-20-2010, 05:03 AM
well had the day to tinker and it was either put the new parts on the TB2 or put a ring in the semi... semi runs good enough so here we go

I added the aluminum motor mounts and clutch plate. in this pic you can see I have bolted both motor mounts down to the chassis and that's it. I know I read some of you guys shimming the clutch plate, but you can see the holes don't line up on mine, even if I pull the motor down. I am going to have to shim under the large motor mount to raise it enough to bolt the clutch plate and such on...

Pipeous
09-20-2010, 06:05 AM
ok the washers under the motor mount made the gear to center dif bind... so back to trying to move the motor around. I guess I will have to undo the small mount to get some room to flex... I have to say this isn't a very good fit though...

RCKIWI
09-20-2010, 06:51 AM
ok the washers under the motor mount made the gear to center dif bind... so back to trying to move the motor around. I guess I will have to undo the small mount to get some room to flex... I have to say this isn't a very good fit though...

When I fit my motor in I do the 4 clutch bolts up first then leave the fan side mount loose on the engine then fit the bottom bolts then tighten the fan cover ones! Once it has been fitted like that and I remove motor and not had the fan side mount off just bolts up every time.

mynameismud76
09-20-2010, 05:27 PM
Strange it's so far out Barry.

Pipeous
09-20-2010, 05:43 PM
I ended up putting it together without any shims. I had to loosen off the left hand motor mounts to be able to pull the motor down and get the bolts in. I was considering making a carbon servo tray for the throttle and putting a hitec 5625 in since I have a new one sitting here. the large hitec had to trim the ear a bit to fit the aluminum side... no give like the plastic hehe.

funny enough once it was all bolted in it's not too bad. it's a little bit tight but I can still spin with 2 fingers so not too bad. and my center dif isn't locked anymore. I guess the seized part let go last time I was playing. just seemed odd to me that it had to be bolted up like it was. with the plastic ones I could unbolt the clutch plate and slide it off. if I hadn't melted part of the plastic stuff I'd have kept it but since I was replacing things I went the aluminum route...

all in all it's in there now and looks good, feels fairly smooth so maybe they fixed the distance issue on the bottom. it's just so tight... and to be fair, it could be the motor casing itself isn't square and once bolted to a solid mount it looked out on the side bolts like my pic