wear of 'dogbone cups'

[Minimax]

Hi,

Is it normal that these cups are wearing out so quickly?

I have run about 5 litres of fuel in total.

http://nutech.ligfietsers.be/slijtage.jpg

[cabbie]

They do seam a bit soft!

[nicolas]

Nutech resolved this problem ...now it's OK

[CAR-KILLER]

how was it resolved and how much will it cost us

[cabbie]

God point, can we have free replacements for the soft cups please?

[NUTECH RACING]

CML has some free replacement drive cups for customer service, please contact CML for the replacement.

Thanks

[NUTECH RACING]

Hi,

Is it normal that these cups are wearing out so quickly?

I have run about 5 litres of fuel in total.

http://nutech.ligfietsers.be/slijtage.jpg

Please contact the dealer which you bought the TB2 for replacement.

[CAR-KILLER]

CML has some free replacement drive cups for customer service, please contact CML for the replacement.

Thanks




called them today and they seemed a little confused about what i was asking

[mooman007uk]

new cups are under going testing at nutech and are so far holding up perfectly, i was testing the second version and they were also wearing so nutech changed vendors, steel and heat treatment specs to get it sorted.

CML are now in the loop so if you call them again they'll be on the same page as regards free replacements.

[Minimax]

Nutech will replace them under warranty,

that's service.

Thanks.

[cabbie]

Oh dear! just stripped the car down and found the right front drive cup melted, this had forced the alloy knuckle outwards causing the threads to slot, wonder if CML will replace the alloy knuckle as it was damaged due to the crap cup?

All the drive cups are now too far worn to use!
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y254/cabbie1/FTX/001.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y254/cabbie1/FTX/002.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y254/cabbie1/FTX/003.jpg

There goes this Sunday for the Punibolt.

[CAR-KILLER]

wow now thats worn

is there room here to re thread and make a new bush

[Freeprawn]

A helicoil kit would solve that and make a stronger thread too.

If your feeling flush buy a kit (come in M3, M4, M5 amongst other sives. very handy for about £30 per kit) or take them to an engine rebuilders for helicoiling, they'll charge you a few quid.

Too expensive to junk um.

Nige

[cabbie]

A helicoil kit would solve that and make a stronger thread too.

If your feeling flush buy a kit (come in M3, M4, M5 amongst other sives. very handy for about £30 per kit) or take them to an engine rebuilders for helicoiling, they'll charge you a few quid.

Too expensive to junk um.

Nige

You can't get a helicoil this narrow.

[cabbie]

These can be saved by filling the damaged holes with alloy weld and re-drilling/taping

[Freeprawn]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ARMSTRONG-HELICOIL-KIT-M4-X-0.7-BNIB_W0QQitemZ170453776440QQcmdZViewItem?rvr_id=&rvr_id=&cguid=6a77182f1220a0aad53477e4ffd28e8f#ht_500wt_11 82

You do mean the M4 bolt holes that hold the hub on right?

Nige

[cabbie]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ARMSTRONG-HELICOIL-KIT-M4-X-0.7-BNIB_W0QQitemZ170453776440QQcmdZViewItem?rvr_id=&rvr_id=&cguid=6a77182f1220a0aad53477e4ffd28e8f#ht_500wt_11 82

You do mean the M4 bolt holes that hold the hub on right?

Nige

Yeah, can you get a helicoil 5mm long? I don't think it would hold up to well.

[Freeprawn]

Due to the material Helicoil is made out of you'll find even a 5mm long helicoil will be stronger than the aluminium threads. Yes you can get 5mm long ones or even make one as small as needed.

Anyhow's up to you, I know how I'd fix it. If you find a better method let me know :)

Nige

[mooman007uk]

drill it out to take the upgraded hub screw kit...in a rush right now but trust me your hubs aren't toasted...there is now a part # (don't have time to look up right now) that will sort you out..

[cabbie]

I feel this knuckle should be replaced by Nutech as it has been damaged due to the drive cup's excessive wear forcing it outwards!

Where can I get the upgrade knuckle screw kit?

[RCKIWI]

I have never seen the outer cups wear at all, the ones in my TB2 Pro on the rear look like new! These may have been missed from harding process!

I have also done a few alloy hubs with helicoils and not had and issues you just cut the excess off when fitted, and yes they seem alot stronger than threading into alloy.

[cabbie]

I have got the new knuckle bolt system coming so I'll just modify the damaged knuckle's to suit.

Happy days.

[bill_g]

What's the part number for that kit?

[mynameismud76]

Oh dear! just stripped the car down and found the right front drive cup melted, this had forced the alloy knuckle outwards causing the threads to slot, wonder if CML will replace the alloy knuckle as it was damaged due to the crap cup?

All the drive cups are now too far worn to use!
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y254/cabbie1/FTX/001.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y254/cabbie1/FTX/002.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y254/cabbie1/FTX/003.jpg

There goes this Sunday for the Punibolt.



In the same boat Cabbie: noticed front wheels wobbling and the took the knuckles off, yup no thread left. =(

Took some pictures, not much different from yours.

Was thinking about tapping it out, and use larger hexes..would that work? Or would the same happen again, and eventually have to get new knuckles?

Just curious, what warrantees do we have with this buggy? Thus far, I need a new wheel (wheel square is rounded), new right knuckle (thread gone), and left knuckle is going that way also. =(

[Isle of Wight Basher]

I think the cause of the front hubs problem is the original c-hub bushing design, as standard the screws work loose meaning the screw is moving around in the thread so causing the damage shown.

As for the the stripped hub I found when I first got the car that I had to space out the metal wheel squares by about 1mm to enable proper tightening of the wheel. i,e a washer between the drive sqaure and wheel bearing. With a slightly loose wheel it'll move about so damaging the wheels square. Or indeed a loose wheel would cause the same damage.

So as both problems are a design issue it'll be interesting to see the response, I think up to date revised parts should be provided to anyone who has bought the UK version i.e FTX Punisher, and CML/Nutech need to get this sorted ASAP, I've held off calling CML until it's clear that there will be an informed response.



Hope you get sorted soon.

[Isle of Wight Basher]

Update,

After a PM form Chris suggesting I call CML for an updated knuckle screw set, I Did, and a set is in the post free of charge.

Well done Nutech and CML :punk: Excellent customer services.

Also whilst chatting I found out CML are looking to stock a Monster Truck and a racer version of the Punisher, not the all alloy car but wider and ARTR.

[mradlin]

Update,

After a PM form Chris suggesting I call CML for an updated knuckle screw set, I Did, and a set is in the post free of charge.

Well done Nutech and CML :punk: Excellent customer services.

Also whilst chatting I found out CML are looking to stock a Monster Truck and a racer version of the Punisher, not the all alloy car but wider and ARTR.

I'm glad you got sorted out bud!

That's also great news about the MT and the wider version. :punk:

[cabbie]

Don't want to piss in you're pond BUT, the updated knuckle screw set don't fit the old knuckles, you'll need the up dated knuckles also.

[Isle of Wight Basher]

Don't want to piss in you're pond BUT, the updated knuckle screw set don't fit the old knuckles, you'll need the up dated knuckles also.

Aaah not so good then, what is the difference ?

CML did say the would do the uprated knuckles at a reduced cost, but I'm skint :damn:

We in the UK got the 2009 version as that is what CML imported, However all 2010 cars will have the 2010 revisions.

So what are the revisions and is there going to be an upgrade kit (free or at cost) for us who got the first models, and have supported the brand.

I would hope that something will be arranged otherwise it's us as end users doing the R&D at our cost, mmm MCD springs to mind.

[mooman007uk]

I did the bearing mod in my knuckles that one of you UK guys did using flanged, regular bearings and shims...also i helicoiled the bottom screw holes and trimmed off the end like Bryan mentioned...i now have zero play or slop...tightest steering i've ever had on any rc and it's a simple, cheap mod. if you're stuck you can also drill out the hub holes and dremel a flat in the back side to get the new bushes to fit the old hubs so you don't need the new hub if you've a drill and dremel

i don't think nutech is operating like MCD at all, the punisher that was ordered by CML was released before the policy of sending cars out to selected testers to put thru the ringer and unfortunately they don't have the updated parts on them but nutech have been extremely good at making things right for buyers by sending parts to the distributers for replacement...
as soon as they are aware of an issue they work on it but
there is no magic wand for an instant fix, the parts have to be redesigned, new programmes or molds made, parts then produced and checked and tested before release, AKA a-arms, with those the vendor that supplies nutech had a mold problem but decided to ship them anyway and stay quiet and unfortunately they got into the parts bin and installed on some trucks and packaged in spares baggies... the vendor said they fixed the mold but the next samples still weren't right hence the delay.

I'm positive things will be put right for those of you with issues, I'm yet to find a company that listens, acts and remedies problems like these guys do

[Isle of Wight Basher]

I didn't state that Nutech was operating like MCD, so far I've been impressed with the customer support and CML, I used MCD as a worst case example.

I'm quite happy to iron out teething problems with any make of car, and yes the flanged bearing mod was mine, and is holding up fine, however if there's design issues that cost me a lot of money to "upgrade" to redesigned parts, such as having to buy "upgraded hubs" to use the redesigned steering knuckle screw set then yes that's how MCD operate.

What MCD didn't do was to offer an upgrade kit to make it cost effective to update older models to the newer spec. Hence us doing their R&D at our cost.

This is what I want for my Punibolt, a kit to upgrade my 2009 model with the latest revisions to 2010 spec at a reasonable cost.

As stated CML will do the "upgrade" hubs at a reduced price for existing owners, and that is fair enough, but I'm skint, so looks like the new screws will go in the spares box until I can afford some.

[mynameismud76]

Hi guys,

Going cold turkey here..

Is there a pic by pic break down for that bearing mod?

Hi Moo =)

Is there a pic of the new mounting screws, just trying to picture what you mean by dremeling and drilling.

I just wanna get back on the road..or grass, or gravel..the buggy looks sad just sitting there, not tearing up grass or gravel.. =(

[Isle of Wight Basher]

Hi guys,

Going cold turkey here..

Is there a pic by pic break down for that bearing mod



Here you go http://www.nutechracingforum.com/vb/showthread.php?t=569

[mynameismud76]

Don't want to piss in you're pond BUT, the updated knuckle screw set don't fit the old knuckles, you'll need the up dated knuckles also.


Hey buddy,

Is there no way the old knuckles be modded to suite the new bolt system?

Cheers

[mynameismud76]

Thanks! Remember now.. =)

[RCKIWI]

Hey buddy,

Is there no way the old knuckles be modded to suite the new bolt system?

Cheers

If you have access to a mill then yes you can mod the std hubs to suit the new bolt system as I have done this for all the original cars I sold here in NZ.

[mynameismud76]

yea..a mill would be much more accurate than my shaky-coffee-ridden hands..wobbling to get that accuracy.. LOL

ARRRGGGHHHHHHH:boxing:

[mooman007uk]

I agree that a reasonably priced update kit would be the way to go, tis a great idea.

if you have a drill press you can drill out the knuckles and a dremel with a small flat ended carbide cutter will get you by to cut a slot in the back


here's a pic

http://i960.photobucket.com/albums/ae84/mooman007/nutech%20rc/DSC05500.jpg

[Isle of Wight Basher]

Aaah, cheers Mr Moo, excellent pic and info, I was wondering what to do with the standard knuckles now I've got updated ones on the way, and the bearing mod wasn't a total success.

First proper pic I've seen of the new knuckles and the design is a vast improvment over the originals.

[cabbie]

Mate keep the old knuckles in you're spares box, I have a mini mill and can machine the flats inside should you damage the updated ones.

[Isle of Wight Basher]

Mate keep the old knuckles in you're spares box, I have a mini mill and can machine the flats inside should you damage the updated ones.

Cheers matey, a kind offer indeed.

I so want a mini mill and will get one when I'm back in gainfull employment. What one you got out of interest ?

[cabbie]

I have the CMD10 but I've fitted a double length table, nice little mill that handles all you're RC needs.

I made this with it, a Revo Truggy I called a Ruggy, lol
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y254/cabbie1/truggy/Photo020.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y254/cabbie1/truggy/Photo048-1.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y254/cabbie1/truggy/Photo047-1.jpg

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cmd10-micro-milling-drilling-machine/path/metal-lathes-milldrills

[mooman007uk]

wow! that is a sweet set up...now something like that in 1/5 scale would be awesome!!

[Isle of Wight Basher]

Very nice Cabbie, cheers for the link to the mill, that's on my wish list now.

[mooman007uk]

an update on the cups...the new version has been installed on all production models as of mid January 2010 and all the replacements sent out since then should be the new type...they use different steel and heat treatment so are much harder and so far are holding up with no wear after more than 15tanks...so looks like this problem has been sorted:punk: +1 to nutech... again... for getting this dealt with as soon as was possible

[Isle of Wight Basher]

I agree that a reasonably priced update kit would be the way to go, tis a great idea.

if you have a drill press you can drill out the knuckles and a dremel with a small flat ended carbide cutter will get you by to cut a slot in the back


here's a pic

http://i960.photobucket.com/albums/ae84/mooman007/nutech%20rc/DSC05500.jpg

I got the new knuckles and screw kit and had a go, not as neat as milling but functional and now I can use the original hubs and keep the new ones as spares.

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h42/isleofwightbasher/FTX%20Punisher%20Rebuild/CIMG1084.jpg