Finally!! Woohoo!!

[mynameismud76]

:dance:

Finally got it!! Been busy with locktite-ing, Isle of Wight's trick with super glue, Pipeous' trick with foams and tape (only had duct-tape), waterproofing servos with Pastic Dip spray.

Lastly, decorating with stickers.

Isn't the battery/receiver box small? Can't get mine to close (see pic), how should I arrange my humpback battery + receiver so the box will shut (I'm running 2.4GHz, so receiver can only be near the antenna opening)

The steering servo twitchs quite loudly when switched on, but does function. Seems to not like being in neutral position. Don't like it when i goes mad like that.

O yes, did a cheapo Outwear prefilter mod. Got donated some old tights from the mother in law..:omg::top secret:

[mynameismud76]

p.s. Thanks to all the guys sharing experiences and knowledge here, and to the Nutech guys as well. =)

Cheers

[mooman007uk]

hope you washed those nylons (tights) before you used them:surprise:

[mynameismud76]

Is that what it was? Was looking around, looking for the source of the smell...Smell of cheesy wotsits :D

[Clubin]

Is that what it was? Was looking around, looking for the source of the smell...Smell of cheesy wotsits :D

:scared::no:Yuck guys, grose mental picture. LOL

My servo's twich a little, but no issues so far. As for fitting the radio box, it is possible. I did it, it'll take a bit of time.

Good looking Nutech. Congrats.

[Isle of Wight Basher]

Nice one, you WILL enjoy,

Regarding the radio box, It all goes in (including a killswitch). I'll be doing the radio gear next on my rebuild thread.

I've sent you a link to the servos I'd use, my standard ones are adequate for now, and I'll be opening up the standard steering servo, as mine "groans" until warmed up (bit like me in the morning)

[mooman007uk]

i bolted an FG radio box to the top of the nutech one for the rx and kill switch and just stuffed the rx pack in with some wadding in the nutech one

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/mooman007uk/DSC00986.jpg


and as for the cheesy wotsits smelling tights i'm with clubin:scared:LOL

[mynameismud76]

Hi Clubbin, I of W, Moo,

Cheers for the info and pics.

Gonna have another play with the receiver box, really not comfortable with a gap like that.:no:

Like the idea of another box though.

I of W: Yes, the steering servo does groan like it's about to burn itself out. Quite alarming. Sorry buddy, where did you send that link? Is it on this forum on another? Look forward to updates of your rebuilds..great work!!

[Isle of Wight Basher]

Hi Clubbin, I of W, Moo,

Cheers for the info and pics.

Gonna have another play with the receiver box, really not comfortable with a gap like that.:no:

Like the idea of another box though.

I of W: Yes, the steering servo does groan like it's about to burn itself out. Quite alarming. Sorry buddy, where did you send that link? Is it on this forum on another? Look forward to updates of your rebuilds..great work!!

It was in reply to a "visitors message" but I can't find it now, anyhow here's the link http://www.servoshop.co.uk/index.php?pid=HITHS5745MG&area=Servo it can also be used for brake/throttle with the bracket seen here to tie the servo to the center diff plate http://www.mmrlargescale.co.uk/shop/product/servo_mounts_set/

With the gap on the radio box, because there is only the R-Clip on the outside and it's a tad flimsy it'll never fully close, so I just tape it shut.

[mynameismud76]

I of W,

Cheers again for them links, yup, was thinking the same servo also. Also looking at Savox 1256 for throttle/brake, would it be better to have a large scale servo here as well?

Yup, fitted everything in the receiver/battery box, battery change on a long day out would be real fiddly. Might cut a hole to feed the charger lead through.

Just been for 1st tank, LOVE IT!!!!!!!!!! Should've got this sooner, love how the engine comes alive through the tank. Front brake cam needs attention, keeps sticking (strange).

Might go for another blast...LOL

Cheers again for them links I of W =)

[Isle of Wight Basher]

I of W,

Cheers again for them links, yup, was thinking the same servo also. Also looking at Savox 1256 for throttle/brake, would it be better to have a large scale servo here as well?

Yup, fitted everything in the receiver/battery box, battery change on a long day out would be real fiddly. Might cut a hole to feed the charger lead through.

Just been for 1st tank, LOVE IT!!!!!!!!!! Should've got this sooner, love how the engine comes alive through the tank. Front brake cam needs attention, keeps sticking (strange).

Might go for another blast...LOL

Cheers again for them links I of W =)

Regarding the largescale servo for throttle/brake, the standard size one in mine gives ok braking without locking (after fettling the linkages), but the larger servo gives lock up braking (as I read elsewhere on the forum) and for high grip surfaces would be better. I'm happy with the standard ones (for now)

Plus having 2 off the same servo on the car means only 1 spare needed, oh and the hitec comes with the nice alloy horn., which can only help eliminate flex and improve braking even more.


I don't run a switch just a lead direct to the battery, so can seal up the radio box nicely. I never run long enough to empty my 3000Mah pack so changing packs isn't an issue for me.

[mooman007uk]

have you got 1 or 2 of the round things with the grub screws in on the brake rods? (don't know what they're called, not had enough coffee yet this morning and my brain refuses to work) I put one on either side of the brake rod loopy bit and bit on the throttle arm so it pushes it back as you open the throttle


hope that makes sense...i'll get a pic for you if not

[Isle of Wight Basher]

have you got 1 or 2 of the round things with the grub screws in on the brake rods? (don't know what they're called, not had enough coffee yet this morning and my brain refuses to work) I put one on either side of the brake rod loopy bit and bit on the throttle arm so it pushes it back as you open the throttle


hope that makes sense...i'll get a pic for you if not

Collets you mean (I've had loads of coffee) and the loopy bit I call the Brake Cam Arm/Rod

I just use one, a normal collet servo side and a sway bar collet/ball brake side, as the springs between the pads eliminate binding, I'll do a little vid on my rebuild thread.

[mynameismud76]

Hi Moo,

Get that cafeteirre (sp?) working!!

Yes, made perfect sense. All the bits are there, just needed to move the brake cam rod further into the cam as the collets were colliding with the top centre diff plate (sorry I of W, dunno the real terms). Loss some front braking power in the process.

Over all SUPER impressed with the Punibolt, the handling, ease of use..etc.. Thanks Nutech guys!!

Just few little adjustments needed:

- brakes (bias, power).
- fine tune engine.
- steering servo saver keeps slacking during run.
- stinger keeps coming off, doing that fastener any tighter will probably crack the exhaust exit pipe (can't wait to get a proper pipe)

Cheers again as always for input guys!!

[Andi]

I have the 1256 for Throttle and Brake. works a charm.

Watch out for the Servo mouting plate though.. I have to mod mine as the holes did not line up with the Servo. They might have sorted that out now though.. looks like your Radio Box is the same as mine.
I sealed it with Bluetack around the top to make a seal and used Gaffa Tape to keep it closed.
(*tapping on my head) Touch wood, I've not has a drop of moisture in there :)

My Steering Servo does the same. I found that if you just turn the wheel a bit on the control, it stops.
I've saving a few pennies for a Rhino though, The standard Servo the strong as hell but not that quick, complex Tracks play havoc with it :o

Andi

[mynameismud76]

Hey Andi,

Cheers for info and input.

Yup, the servos stop twitching after a couple of turns.

Ya, that radio box is bit fiddly, got a condom round receiver, gonna add that tape and blutack..good idea =)

Just gotta sort out the brake linkages, now..again. Front brake collets were catching on the underside of centre diff plate, that's fixed..now the rear ones are sticking (wonder if its the brake cams)...?? What am I not doing? :confused:

[mooman007uk]

had plenty of coffee this morning LOL
is the rear brake cam the right way around? if it's in backwards (turned 180deg) it will apply the rear brake as you open the throttle, something to look at

[mynameismud76]

I miss the coffee from the Continent..real stuff!!

The cam is not reversed..I have reluctantly lubricated the brake cam shaft, seems to work (for now)..need to run it to be sure.

[mynameismud76]

Quick pic before 1st tank.

The "to do" list is getting longer..need to prioritise..:dots:

[mynameismud76]

Before getting to any exciting bits of the list, I'd need to replace some bits.

Rounded off the wheel hub square on one wheel. Dangit!!

Rounded off the right front knuckle's top screw..completely!! At £61.49 a set, I'm going to try and tap it out.

If you have upgraded your wheels&tyres, let me know if you'd like to sell a pair of wheels&tyres =)

[mynameismud76]

Just saved the tyres from the knackered wheel.

Boils fine, wheel is still round, no distortion during cooling..not that my @@ can see.

Tyres peel off fine also, with minimal ripping.

Inserts, completely intact.

Result!! =)

[Pipeous]

cool you got it off intact. rims are cheaper than tires. and I like these tb2 tires a lot. like running crime fighters on 8th scales, which seem to be the best all around tire for many surfaces

[mynameismud76]

Hi Pipeous, yup just need new pair of wheels. Tons of grip from these tyres. Very happy with them.

Just have this other ball ache issue with the knuckles to sort out. Wonder if I'd get it all together before next weekends bash?j :dots:

Fingers crossed.

[mynameismud76]

Gotten new knuckles (version 2) and the new bolting system. Seems to be working so much better than the old one. Allows more free movements.

Bit fiddly to fix on:

1 - Remove knuckle assembly completely.

2 - pop inner bearing in.

3 - with the matching size washer, pop the hex female bolt from inside the knuckle.

4 - (fiddly bit) insert knuckle into hub carrier.

5 - (another fiddly bit) slide the larger washer between knuckle and the plastic hub.

6 - pop the bushing on from the outside of the hub.

7 - screw in the possie screw along with the remaining smallest washer (I've used a bit of locktite here for peace of mind)

8 - insert drive cup.

(Isle of Wight had a good idea on his thread: he bolted a wheel on after the assembling the hub to check for binding..very good idea)

9 - bolt this hub and knuckle assembly back onto upper&lower suspension arm assembly.

Done!

Was in a hurry to get her back on the road, making hay while the sun shines and all that, so didn't take any pictures.

New knuckle system, looks good!! Thanks Nutech and CML!!! :punk:

[mradlin]

I'm glad you got it sorted out. Now get out there and have some fun! :punk:

[mynameismud76]

O yes, had plenty of fun..My lcoal BMX track + nice weather = lotta fun also = burnt steering servo =(

Replaced the throttle/brake yesterday, servo's always seem to go in pairs with me =(

[Pipeous]

Well consider this to be like a teenage girlfriend's father... the sooner you get that out of the way, the better

[mynameismud76]

LOL, yaaa..been a long time since I've dated a teenager.

Not sure when I'll get back on the road, funds low, working solid for the next few weeks.. =(:damn:

[mynameismud76]

Can' you believe it?

I've lost all the fins on the pullstart side of the flywheel! :damn:

To compensate for loss of cooling ability, I've reamed holes all over the plastic cylinder/spark plug cover.

By how much would you say the cooling ability is lost by?

Also, noticed the flywheel is actually grinding against the coil! :dots:

[Mexxan]

Be careful Mud- an unbalanced flywheel which could shaft up you're engine bearings from the possible vibrations. Although losing all the fins on one side might result less problems than losing losing a few. Lost a few fins on the 5t - opposite each other, but I still need to swap it out for a lightened one from DDM. One of my screws got attached to the magnets while I was rebuilding it and I missed it until it was too late. Did you do the mesh mod / get an Outerwears?

Good luck bud - I'm sure you'll have it ripping again in no time.

[mynameismud76]

Found couple of these and not sure if they'll bolt straight on? Would I need a flywheel puller as well?

A - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200450631409&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

B - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170460854929&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

This second one says HPI part, confuses me somewhat.

Would I need a flywheel puller like this one?

C - http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.885035/n.1/it.A/id.4093/.f

[Pipeous]

either should work fine. I have bought from that first seller. I just use a screwdriver handle, spin the flywheel and tap from behind... just takes time and patience

[Mexxan]

Try MMR, cheaper and you know the service is second to none. I've checked that guy's stuff before - always overpriced. To me quality service has a fair price built in, that's why I prefer to use MMR if I can. Hope it helps.


http://www.mmrlargescale.co.uk/shop/product/flywheel_set_fuelie_engine/

[mynameismud76]

Yup, got on the dog and bone to MMR and have puller and flywheel on the next day delivery!! woo hoo =)

Cheers for that tip Pipeous, I thought back to Nitro flywheel, my old one was properly stuck on..so ordered a puller just in case.

Fingers crossed I don't bodge it up.

MMR said the flywheel to coil gap should be 0.4mm?

What if the gap was say, 1mm? Will the coil not work as well?

The flywheel and coil is touching now, I guess the fin damage has closed that gap. Damage bearing? Hope not.

[Pipeous]

just take an everyday business card to gap the coil. and on the magnet part too lol... ask me how I know to remind you of that part haha... yup gapped mine once to the wrong part of the flywheel and put it together.... then wondered why things jammed half a revolution later

[mynameismud76]

Business card! I like it!!

My treasured ride was playing up yesterday, sounded like clutch slipping. Wooped it all off, and clutch shoes looks good. Reassembled it all, quick blimp around the garden, seems ok (small garden though).

Decided to strip diffs (front, centre and rear) in ready for arriving diff oils, this is what I found: two diff gears worn!! :damn:

Can't figure out why it could have done this, is it because the spring in the diff outdrive cup seizing?

[mooman007uk]

how many shims you got, should be one behind each spider gear and 2 behind each outdrive gear

[mynameismud76]

Yup,

Got those shims exacto mondo. But how does the shims work when the cups are sprung and move around?

[mynameismud76]

Just had a look, the front diff has 3 shims on the outdrive cups, and the rear has only two.

Should front and rear outdrive cups have same number of shims?

[mooman007uk]

the outdrive cups are held agaianst the shims by the spider gears as everything should be tight together when bolted up, the cups then just move up and down the gear slots and the gear stays put.
does your diff case have a metal insert where the bearing slides over?

[mynameismud76]

Can't see any Mooman, the bearings just sit in the groove-like part of the diff case.

When you get a chance, do you mind posting a pic?

Cheers =)

[mynameismud76]

Ah..I got it..no the bearing on the diff case have no inserts.

Got it all up and running..result!!

Working tomorrow for next 20 days solid...unlucky...:dots:

[mynameismud76]

It's here!!

ONB and Jetpro fitted!! Pipe was nightmare, the brackets didn't line up..and the exhaust was leaking, got it sorted in the end :punk::punk::punk:

http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af150/mynameismud76/IMG_0984.jpg

http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af150/mynameismud76/IMG_0986.jpg

http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af150/mynameismud76/IMG_0987.jpg

http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af150/mynameismud76/IMG_0988.jpg

http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af150/mynameismud76/IMG_0990.jpg

http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af150/mynameismud76/IMG_0991.jpg

How do you fit the shock socks so they look neat? A real hack at the moment.. =(

Rang two tanks so far. Killer Bee working sweet, tweaked front and rear camber (cranked up front, took off rear), diffs sorted (70k front, 100k centre, a leaky 30k rear), swopped the 813 for the 668, running stock clutch spring.

Seems to be quite good, the pipe really balances the kit. Did a 10m or so drift by accident, though it does slide quite predictably. Needs a bit more tweaking though.

Oh, think I'm due for tyres soon..LOL

[mradlin]

Looking good! The shock socks look great too.

[mooman007uk]

looking good...i though the mount tab for the pipe went in front of the case not behind like in this pic

[Clubin]

looking good...i though the mount tab for the pipe went in front of the case not behind like in this pic
Damn you beat me to i!!!!i. LOL

Looks like the tab got bonked during shipping.

[mynameismud76]

Thanks guys =)

Oh the bracket was straight out of the box, but I bent it to go behind the flywheel cover so I can remove the cover without having to remove the pipe..Had to remove the flywheel and flip the black and red connectors as the engine wasn't starting..But should that have made a difference? Anyhows, the engine started after a few more pulls and now runs great!! =)

It was a real job getting the pipe on. The bracket near the flywheel cover didn't line up, and had to file the other bracket near the silencer so the hole would go over the screw. But sorted now =)

Still need to find time to get the shock socks a bit tidier, but cable ties would do for now..lazy I know..LOL

[Pipeous]

I really like the red bodies, I think it looks great. I ordered the nutech shock socks with my next order, but those yellow ones really match the body

[mooman007uk]

ah, clever idea with the bracket. The wires on the coil have no specific position...they just short out the coil to stop the motor.
the red does look better than the blue body and of course everyone knows red makes things faster:punk:

[mynameismud76]

Thanks again guys =)

I like the yellow too, it's a more tangy yellow than I'd imagined, but it serves its purpose.

Yes, red is a good colour for fast things. Vrrooom vrooommmmm..zoom zoommmm

Running my 3rd tank with the new engine today, noticed a lot of oversteer and the drivetrain not sounding right. Revs seem to pick up quite easily, but the buggy not accelerating as fast. First thought, the grub screws that holds the big gear to the clutch bell have come loose again.

But the front wheels were starting to balloon, and then not much drive from the rear.. It's the rear diff..again =(

It's only been about 5 or 6 tanks since I've ground the last ones. The diff gear connected to the drive cup has rounded off. Also noticed a bump in the diff case, as if the pin that conncects the other two diff gears have been rammed against the inside of the diff case.

What would you guys recommend to resolve this, taking diffs apart is rather time consuming, and diff gear sets are not cheap. Was thinking about getting the alloy diff case, would this help?

Cheers guys =)

[Clubin]

Mud, it doesn't matter where the black/red wires go on the coil, so long as they are both on.. Must have been a coincidence when you pulled it apart and re assembled it then it ran.

I'd put in a alloy diff case, but Nutech had some issues with them not being the correct measurments, so...maybe wait till we get the word they are good to go. Maybe for now just install a new plastic case.

[mynameismud76]

Hey Clubbin,

Thanks for the info, must be coicidence. LOL

Just got to sort that diff out now..any ideas? =(

Learn how to drive? LOL

[mooman007uk]

the alloy cases fit fine in the front and rear...bolt straight in...i got 15 tanks or so on mine, tore them both down last week to put the new diff cups in and everything was good.
mud are the pin slots in the case buggered...the old plastic case wasn't as strong around where the pin sits and the pin would wear a sloppy hole in the slot...that'd probably allow enough adverse movement in the diff to munch the gears

[mynameismud76]

Hi Moo =)

Thanks again for info =)

Cool, bolts straight on, would it bolt straight on centre diff too?

Yup, the bump on the diff case is at the bottom of the pin slot. I can't see the extent of the damage from the inside, just wopped it all off and wanted to see which gears were munched.

[mynameismud76]

Quick update:

New engine chewed rear diff (this was the old plastic rear diff gearbox casing).

New alloy diff gearbox casing, on around 4th litre, seems fine.

Have the mother of all cleaning jobs to do, sand and salt is EVERYWHERE!! =(


Found this:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FG-RSX-FG-Gas-Cap-/200397814322?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ea8a3fa32

Do you guys think this will fit?

[Pipeous]

I just tried an fg cap on the nutech tank I pulled from the gt5r, fits nicer than the nutech one. no fighting the threads, smooth as silk. if that cap isn't vented you'll have to add a vent line to the cap or tank then

[Pipeous]

That fit so nice I have 3 fg caps that the tb2 is getting one. has the little thing goes in the tank too so it doesn't fall down, just hangs there

[Clubin]

Any pictures of the chewed diff? I agree the stock gas caps suck a bit. LOL

[mynameismud76]

Cheers for the fit check Pipeous =)

Here's pictures of the first set of gears chewed, this set has suffered both the gear attached to drive cup and one attached to the pin.

http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af150/mynameismud76/IMG_0979.jpg

[mradlin]

I also have a FG cap on mine. It fits really nice.

[NutechNL]

the nutech alloy gas cap fits good and its vented..

[mynameismud76]

Refitted 2 alloy diff gearboxes to front and centre diff, rear diff already fitted, seems ok (no leakage around diff outdrive cups and still show good spring back..though one side binds a little at full compression..2nd set of rear outdrive cups showing wear already at 5th tank..need upgraded harder cups)

Running 500k centre and mixed 90k up front.

Rear dogbones showing wear on the hub cup end, silly not to run rubber boots on that beach bash. Big DOH!!

Super glued shock bottom plastic end bits, one had only five turns and it was off! :omg:

Too much camber has wear out the inside tread, taken more camber off.

Added Isle of Wight's steering posts bearing mod.

Shock oil could do with top up I think, as you can compress the shocks about half inch before you feel the oil doing the work.

Centre diff outdrive cups, in particular the rear one is starting to wear also.

[mynameismud76]

Added (Cabbie's..I think) cut pipes for suspension compressor bits mod. Cutted sets in 10mm, 15mm, 20mm, and 25mm sets. Fitted 20mm front and 25mm rear, on stock shock oils, this seems a bit too much, really good cornering power, but would be sketchy on bumpy surfaces. Going to try 15mm front and 20mm rear.

Front diff leaking around output cups..gonna have a look see.

Might need new front diff outdrive cups.

Was supposed to go bashing with the lads, but it's rained off. Forecast looks good for tomorrow though =)

[mooman007uk]

all my outdrive cups wore pretty bad...cvd's to the rescue...the centre diff cups also wore (on my 3rd rear one now) but think the new ones are now as hard as the new diff cups that don't wear at all...my rear dogbone pins are flat not round anymore but the HPI 4mm pins fit so replacing them is quick and easy...none of my diff cups slide anymore after just 2 tanks on the new ones...will have fg stuff in by end of next week...just waiting on 2nd set on cvd's for the rear

i stuffed 2 orings in my diffs instead of the one and the plastic ring but they still weep...a fatter oring would be better maybe...I'll check the rampig ones...they have never leaked

[mynameismud76]

Yup, flat pins on dog bones also.

Just took front weepy diff apart, had trouble getting the pin connecting two gears out (are these called satellite gears?), just as Pipeous did. After a little heat persuasion, it budged and came out. Hope it's cooled and still round..LOL

Luckily it was the front diff and could always revert back to the old plastic diff gearbox..not if I can avoid it though.

The list of upgrades just gets longer LOL

[Pipeous]

so it is happening to more than just me and another thing the distributors need to parlay to the mfg. the cases look nice but need a bit of modification. maybe even bearings or bushings inside the case for those pins... sattelite gears works for me ;)

I haven't noticed any leaking with mine though

[mynameismud76]

Met up with FreePrawn Racing team driver, and Banners and Nick. Smashed my rear end up (upper arm link popped out of ball joint and cracked snapped one spoke on right rear wheel, no biggy. Busted rear diff cup..Game over)

http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af150/mynameismud76/IMG_0995.jpg

http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af150/mynameismud76/IMG_0994.jpg


Consolation price: found this sweet spot, lots of tarmac, and TONS of gravel and loose dirt!!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JjQQWuFVNU8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g5t748Gcrk4

2nd vid, Banners trying to talk his way out of it LOL!!

[banners]

no escape, all got sorted though thankfully! Although you managed to miss out the bit where you and Nige were telling me to deny all knowledge LOL :wasn't me:

[mynameismud76]

SHHH!!! That bit is on the edit room floor LOL

:top secret:

Great day it was =)

[banners]

baja verses punisher. the baja was a 29cc, punibolt 26cc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_iKlxheWb4

[Clubin]

Damn mud, that drive cup is worn out anyway. Nice distruction.

[mynameismud76]

baja verses punisher. the baja was a 29cc, punibolt 26cc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_iKlxheWb4


Lol, thanks for posting it. =)





Damn mud, that drive cup is worn out anyway. Nice distruction.


Funny that, those cups are only 4 or 5 tanks old =(

What part number are those new updated harder diff outdrive cups?

[Clubin]

As far as I know they are the same part # just updated.

[mooman007uk]

I had a rodend pop off before so now i put washers on the end of those ball joints so they can't pop off...;) I've also snapped a cup like that but for a reason i still can't fathom...my dogbone twisted 90deg and bent at the end...something stopped it pretty quick:surprise: it ran for a while as you can see from the pin wear, before it snapped the cup

here's the bone

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/mooman007uk/DSC01575.jpg

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/mooman007uk/DSC01573.jpg

[mynameismud76]

Dude, that's it!! My bone wasn't damaged..besides the normal wearing out pins.

Good tip on the washer poppy outer stopper.



One of the bolts on the clutch shoe came completely undone. Got the bolt back in, went for a run in a freshly mowed field and heated the engine (didn't know at the time..the buggy just died).

Took the rear end apart to inspect any damages, found the rear diff a little notchy. It doesn't sound like satelite and the diff cup gear is meshing very well.

Had a look in the Zen 4 bolt, it was a little mucky, but I can't see anything resembling those spots TMR mentioned. Fingers crossed.

How do you remove them rubber crank seals? And the crank bearings? Both seems wedges in there good.

Forecast is dry and hot tomorrow..gonna ream more holes in the shell and go for a run.


Latest mods: Bespoke side guards (Courtesy of FreePrawn Racing). Steering servo link (Thanks David & Lee at NutechNL).

[Andi]

Did I miss a bash :(

[mynameismud76]

O mate, sorry..my bad. =(

We went to the pit. Hoss (TM Forum) and Yanto (TM), Nigel, Banners, Aiden, MixmasterJay (MSUK).

The site is being considered for future TM Bashes :punk:

Be warned, the site chews tyres!!:damn:

There's terrain for everyone, from tarmac, to gravel, to grass. Not a great deal for rock crawlers though (plenty of trees..any good crawlers?)

The pit is becoming a popular playground, in the past three weeks, we've hit it 3 times :punk:

Shoot Banners, Aiden a PM for the next one =)

[mooman007uk]

the seals i pop out with a screwdriver...don't know of any way to get them out without killing them...the bearings are tight...i heat the cases with a plumbers torch quickly around the bearing bosses and push them out with a socket..they pretty much fall out then.

[mynameismud76]

Cool, was going to change those crank bearings to ceramics. But shouldn't bother now, untill I get some new seals. Cheers

[mynameismud76]

It's been a long while since last update.

Here is the beast in it's present incarnation:

http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af150/mynameismud76/IMG_1202.jpg

http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af150/mynameismud76/IMG_1203.jpg

http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af150/mynameismud76/IMG_1204.jpg

Very impressed with the wide conversion, lots more stable and looks massively wide!!

Brakes are still touch and go, been scrubbing the discs on sand paper, and degreasing it with Nitro cleaner..but still can't fly into a hairpin with any confidence. Brake cams moves freely and doesn't look worn.

Setup wise, I'm almost dialed in..just need to work on driver skills LOL

[mradlin]

Looking really good Mud!!!

How's she been acting for you?

[mynameismud76]

Thanks mike =)

She's been good as gold..great fun on the track.

Reliability has been very good.

Can't wait for Victory to show us a underbody pipe.

How has your Nutech been?

[newtothenu]

It's been a long while since last update.

Here is the beast in it's present incarnation:

http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af150/mynameismud76/IMG_1202.jpg

http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af150/mynameismud76/IMG_1203.jpg

http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af150/mynameismud76/IMG_1204.jpg

Very impressed with the wide conversion, lots more stable and looks massively wide!!

Brakes are still touch and go, been scrubbing the discs on sand paper, and degreasing it with Nitro cleaner..but still can't fly into a hairpin with any confidence. Brake cams moves freely and doesn't look worn.

Setup wise, I'm almost dialed in..just need to work on driver skills LOL

mud i reckon you need these mate

http://www.rsbspares.com/epages/es113140.sf?ObjectPath=/Shops/es113140_shop/Products/%22Mecatech%20Hydraulic%20Front%20Brakes%22

then you could stop like you hit a wall ha ha

i want some but they aren't cheap are they :omg:

[mynameismud76]

mud i reckon you need these mate

http://www.rsbspares.com/epages/es113140.sf?ObjectPath=/Shops/es113140_shop/Products/%22Mecatech%20Hydraulic%20Front%20Brakes%22

then you could stop like you hit a wall ha ha

i want some but they aren't cheap are they :omg:


They're like smaller version of mountain bike brakes..:punk:

Yea, my brakes is a strange one, some Punisher's have way better brakes than mine..don't know what I'm doing wrong..oh well, brakes are over-rated anyways..LOL

[mradlin]

Thanks mike =)

She's been good as gold..great fun on the track.

Reliability has been very good.

Can't wait for Victory to show us a underbody pipe.

How has your Nutech been?

Ya, the victory pipe will be another great addidtion.
I haven't ran nothing lately, been too busy with work. :mad:

[mynameismud76]

Ya, the victory pipe will be another great addidtion.
I haven't ran nothing lately, been too busy with work. :mad:

It sure will buddy. Can't wait :excited:

Ah, work always conspires against having fun. =(

[mynameismud76]

Inspired by Aiden's snow chains..which looks like the real thing..good work buddy!!

Fabbed these tonight:

http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af150/mynameismud76/IMG_1480.jpg

http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af150/mynameismud76/IMG_1483.jpg

http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af150/mynameismud76/IMG_1484.jpg

http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/af150/mynameismud76/IMG_1485.jpg

Should they be cut back a bit shorter? Unfortunately the treads have worn rather unevenly, so some looks to be poking out more than the others.

Sod's law, now they're ready for testing, there's no snow or enough ice outside the house to test =(

[Pipeous]

need to do some frozen lake racing with those bad boys... just don't run over anyone or you'll shred them to bits

[mynameismud76]

OO frozen lake rally..sounds good to me..

Yea, they feel quite bite-y to the touch..hopefully translates to good traction on the hard packed snow/ice.

[mynameismud76]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uO-AFe5JtLs


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rw_qZmQMuRY

This looks like good fun.

[mradlin]

Wow!!
That's some awesome footage Mud.
Thanks

[mynameismud76]

Thanks Mike, and welcome =)

The guys running spiked rims, they're fast as hell!!