Also have a look for any marks or signs of wear on the bells you have broke, check the bearings by hand and look to see if everything is in line and nothing is binding.
Other than that I'm at a loss, It's not a weak part in my experiance.
You could try an FG clutch bell just to rule out the Nutech ones.
Nige
Visit My Shop - www.freeprawnracing.co.uk
I had a local customer call me today, he was at a cash race last weekend for the 4th of july, smoked the HPIs in the first heat and was getting ready for the 2nd and final heat when his clutch bell broke in the same place :-(, he wasnt able to complete the race so the HPIS won. I will get some pictures off to the factory and see what we can do.
Thank You,
Scott
Zero Gravity RC
Had the clutch bell mount off today, in ready for the FG bell (still not here!!)
Had a visual on the clutch bell mount, seems ok.
Next, grabbed the clutch shoes and found it wobbles very slightly.
There shouldn't be any play in the crankshaft should there?
Wonder if this is why I've gone through two shafts within one tank??
should be no play up and down at all....the clutch side bearings are the first to go along with the seal then the motor sucks air, every cy motor i've had has had that bearing and seal go after a while..i found ceramic bearings are they way to go
mynameismud76 (07-09-2010)
I was the guy who had it break..... After i took the engine out and replaced the clutch bell with the upgraded one i noticed that with the aluminum motor mounts, that i needed a shim, washer, behind the top two mount bolts because there was a gap. Why the upgraded motor mount and clutch holder don't come with longer standoffs I don't know. I believe the clutch was misaligned and that caused the clutch bell to break....lol Live and learn...
everyone I know with the alloy mounts has had to shim them...but not all use the same size shims, mine has .5mm and another i know has 1mm. With the laut 4shoe clutch( it's a tad bigger than stock clutches) if I don't shim it exact it rubs on the bell
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